Audited 25 May 2026·Last updated 28 Oct 2026·8 citations·Tier 1·0 uses

Savings Goal Calculator

Find the monthly deposit that reaches a savings target by a deadline, from your target, current balance, interest rate and years, with interest earned.

Savings Goal Calculator

The dollar amount you want to have saved by the end of the horizon. Down payment, emergency fund, wedding, tuition — any number works.
$
What you already have set aside in the account that will hold this goal. Enter 0 if you are starting from scratch.
$
Nominal annual rate, compounded monthly (the rate is divided by 12). Use the quoted interest rate for a savings account or CD; if you only know the APY, enter the nominal equivalent (a 5% APY is about 4.89%). For a brokerage account use a long-run estimate (4-7%).
%
Time horizon between today and the date you need the money. Short horizons (under 3 years) should stay in cash; long horizons can tolerate more market risk.
yrs
Required Monthly Contribution
$268.96
The deposit in dollars to make at the end of every month so that, with your current savings and interest, the balance reaches the target on the deadline.
Total You Will Deposit
$37,275.38
Interest Earned
$12,724.62

Background.

Ask how much $300 a month will grow to and any compound-interest table will answer. The question people actually face runs the other way: I need $50,000 for a house deposit in ten years, I have $5,000 put aside, so what do I transfer each month? Answering it means solving the same growth equation for the payment instead of the balance. Here the answer is computed with monthly compounding and a deposit at the end of every month, and it comes back with two companions: how much of the target you will have paid in yourself, and how much interest will have added.

Three things move the monthly figure, and not equally. Time is the strongest. At 5% a year, reaching $50,000 from a $5,000 start takes $640.87 a month over five years, $268.96 over ten and $147.52 over fifteen, so doubling the time from five years to ten cuts the payment by about 58%. The starting balance comes next: the same ten-year goal begun from nothing needs $321.99 a month, so the $5,000 already saved is worth $53.03 off every payment for a decade. The rate matters less than people expect over short spans and more over long ones. Keeping the money in cash at 0% raises the ten-year payment to a flat $375, while 7% lowers it to $230.82.

The arithmetic assumes the rate holds for the whole period, that every deposit arrives on time and that nothing is taken out. It ignores tax on the interest, account fees and inflation, all of which can be folded in by adjusting the inputs, as the questions further down explain. Run it once per goal: a down payment, an emergency fund and a car each have their own deadline, and each deserves its own number and, ideally, its own account.

What is savings goal calculator?

The required monthly contribution is the level deposit that, made at the end of every month and added to your existing balance as both earn interest, grows to exactly the target on the deadline. Finance textbooks call it a sinking-fund payment: the future value of an ordinary annuity, solved for the payment rather than the balance. It splits the target into two sources. One is money you put in, which is your current savings plus every monthly deposit. The other is interest, which is whatever the target exceeds your deposits by. Over short horizons at savings-account rates nearly all of the target is your own money; over long horizons the interest share grows, because early deposits have many years to compound.

The payment only works if the money stays put. Keeping each goal in its own labelled account, which some banks offer as free sub-accounts, makes progress visible and makes it harder to raid the house fund for a holiday. Behavioural economists call this habit of treating money differently according to its purpose mental accounting, and for a savings goal it works in your favour.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Enter the Target Amount you will need on the day. For a home, include closing costs as well as the down payment; for an emergency fund, multiply your essential monthly spending by the number of months you want covered.
  2. Enter Current Savings: only money already sitting in the account set aside for this goal. Leave out retirement accounts and money earmarked for something else, and enter 0 if you are starting fresh.
  3. Enter the Annual Interest Rate the account pays. It is treated as a yearly rate divided by twelve and compounded monthly, so for a savings account the quoted interest rate fits best; for an investment account, use a cautious long-run assumption; for plain cash, enter 0.
  4. Enter Years to Save as a whole number from 1 to 50. If the deadline falls between whole years, round down so the money is ready early rather than late.
  5. Read the Required Monthly Contribution and set it up as an automatic transfer for the day after payday. If the figure is too high, try a longer horizon or a smaller target before assuming a higher rate. If you are paid every two weeks, the monthly figure × 12 ÷ 26 gives a fortnightly amount, $124.14 in the example, that slightly overfunds the goal because the money arrives earlier.
  6. Compare Total You Will Deposit with Interest Earned to see how much of the goal you are funding yourself.

The formula.

PMT = (FV − PV(1+r)ⁿ) × r ⁄ [(1+r)ⁿ − 1]

Start from the forward equation for a balance that grows while you keep adding to it: FV = PV(1 + r)ⁿ + PMT × [(1 + r)ⁿ − 1] ÷ r. Here r is the monthly rate, the annual percentage divided by 100 and then by 12, and n is the number of months, years × 12. The first term is what your existing savings become on their own. The second is the value of n equal deposits: the first deposit compounds for n − 1 months, the last for none, and the bracket divided by r is the sum of that geometric series, called the annuity factor.

Set FV to the target and solve for the payment: PMT = (FV − PV(1 + r)ⁿ) × r ÷ [(1 + r)ⁿ − 1]. In words, subtract what your current savings will grow to from the target, then divide the shortfall by the annuity factor.

Two special cases are handled directly. At a 0% rate the annuity factor would divide by zero, so the payment becomes the straight-line gap, (FV − PV) ÷ n. If your current savings, growing at the stated rate, already reach the target, the required payment is $0 and the interest figure shows what the existing balance earns by itself.

The model takes the rate as fixed and the deposits as level and on time. Real accounts change their rates, investment returns vary from year to year, and tax is usually due on interest as it is earned. An optimistic rate is costly in a way that only shows at the end: plan the example goal at 7% and you deposit $230.82 a month, but if the money actually earns 5% the balance after ten years is about $44,077, roughly $5,923 short of the target. Because the payment falls steeply as the horizon lengthens, starting a year earlier often does more than hunting for a slightly better rate.

A worked example.

Example

The example sets a $50,000 target, $5,000 already saved, 5% a year and 10 years. The monthly rate is 0.05 ÷ 12 = 0.0041667 and the number of months is 10 × 12 = 120. Over 120 months each dollar grows by (1.0041667)¹²⁰ = 1.6470, so the existing $5,000 becomes 5,000 × 1.6470 = $8,235.05 with no further help. That leaves 50,000 − 8,235.05 = $41,764.95 for the monthly deposits to cover. The annuity factor is (1.6470 − 1) ÷ 0.0041667 = 155.2823: a dollar deposited at the end of every month for ten years builds to about $155.28. Dividing the shortfall by it gives 41,764.95 ÷ 155.2823 = $268.96 a month. Over the decade, 120 deposits of $268.96 add up to $32,275.38, and with the $5,000 starting balance the total you put in is $37,275.38. Interest supplies the remaining $12,724.62, a little over a quarter of the $50,000. A short emergency-fund goal looks very different. Building $30,000 from nothing in three years at 4% takes $785.72 a month; you put in $28,285.90 and interest adds only $1,714.10, under 6% of the target. Over a horizon that short, the saving is almost entirely your own.

target Amount50,000
annual Rate5
years10
current Savings5,000

Frequently asked questions.

Should I enter my account's APY or its interest rate?
The interest rate, if you have it. The calculator divides the annual figure by 12 and compounds monthly, so entering a 5% APY behaves like a 5.12% APY. A true 5% APY corresponds to a nominal rate of about 4.889%, which raises the ten-year example payment from $268.96 to $271.15. The difference is small, about $2 a month here, but it errs on the optimistic side.
Why is Total You Will Deposit bigger than my monthly payments added up?
Because it includes the current savings you entered as well as every future deposit. In the example, 120 payments of $268.96 come to $32,275.38, and adding the $5,000 you already hold gives $37,275.38. Interest Earned is the target minus that total, so the two figures always add back up to the goal.
What if my current savings already cover the goal?
Then the required contribution is $0 and Interest Earned shows what your balance earns on its own. Saving $10,000 in five years with $8,000 already in an account paying 5% is one such case: the $8,000 grows to about $10,266.87 by itself, so no new deposits are needed. Any extra you add simply arrives early or builds a cushion.
How do I allow for inflation?
Two ways, which give different-looking answers. You can raise the target to future prices: at an assumed 3% inflation, $50,000 of today's buying power is about $67,195.82 in ten years, which needs $379.70 a month at 5%. Or you can keep the target in today's dollars and enter a real rate of about 2%, which gives $330.73, but then the deposit must rise with inflation each year to stay on track.
What changes if I deposit at the start of each month instead of the end?
Each deposit earns one extra month of interest, so the required amount falls slightly. Dividing the end-of-month payment by one plus the monthly rate gives the start-of-month version: $268.96 ÷ 1.0041667 is about $267.85 in the example. The difference is small at savings-account rates, so the end-of-month figure is the safer one to plan around.
Why would anyone enter a 0% rate?
To see what the goal costs without help from interest, or to plan money kept as cash. With a 0% rate the payment is simply the gap divided by the months: ($50,000 − $5,000) ÷ 120 = $375. Comparing that with the $268.96 needed at 5% shows the interest is worth about $106 a month over a decade.
Where should money for a two-year goal sit, compared with a fifteen-year one?
For money needed within a few years, the deadline matters more than the return, so an insured savings account, a certificate of deposit or a Treasury money-market fund suits it; bank deposits are FDIC-insured up to $250,000 per depositor per bank for each ownership category. Over fifteen years there is time to ride out market falls, so a stock-and-bond fund may fit, but its return will vary and the rate you enter is only an assumption.
How do taxes on the interest change the monthly figure?
Interest from savings accounts and CDs is taxed as ordinary income each year, which shrinks the rate that actually compounds. At a 24% federal bracket, 5% becomes 3.8% after tax, and entering 3.8% raises the example payment from $268.96 to $293.00. Treasury interest is exempt from state income tax, and tax-advantaged accounts such as a 529 plan can shelter savings for qualifying goals.
I missed several months. How do I get back on track?
Run the numbers again from where you are now: enter today's balance as Current Savings and the years left as the horizon. The new payment absorbs the shortfall over the remaining time, which costs more the closer you are to the deadline. At 5%, a $2,000 shortfall spread over the last eight years adds about $16.99 a month; the same shortfall with two years left adds about $79.41.
How does this differ from a compound interest or retirement calculator?
A compound interest calculator runs the same equation forward: choose a deposit and see the balance it builds. Here you fix the balance and get the deposit. A retirement calculator goes further, modelling decades of withdrawals after you stop working, and often varying returns. Use this one for a single sum needed on a known date, such as a deposit, school fees or a car.

How this page was produced

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Quanta Calculator
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Method
PMT = (FV − PV(1+r)ⁿ) × r ⁄ [(1+r)ⁿ − 1]
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