Audited ·Last updated 28 Jul 2026·7 citations·Tier 1·0 uses

Depth of Field Calculator

Free depth of field calculator. Enter sensor format, focal length, f-number and focus distance to get the near limit, far limit and total depth of field.

Depth of Field Calculator

Sensor format
Only used when the format above is set to Custom. Use the imaging-area width from your camera's specification sheet, not the sensor package size.
mm
Only used when the format above is set to Custom. A 1"-type compact or drone sensor is usually quoted as 13.2 × 8.8 mm — check your own specification sheet before relying on it.
mm
The actual focal length engraved on the lens, not the 35 mm equivalent. A 25 mm Micro Four Thirds lens is 25 mm here, even though it frames like a 50 mm on full frame.
mm
Enter 8 for f/8, 1.4 for f/1.4. Use the aperture the shot is actually taken at, not the lens's maximum — depth of field is set by the working aperture.
f/
Distance from the lens to the plane you focused on, in metres. 1 ft = 0.3048 m, so 10 ft = 3.05 m. Must be larger than the focal length.
m
Sharpness standard
Total depth of field
1.76 m
The distance from the near limit to the far limit of acceptable sharpness. Reads "infinite" when the focus distance has reached or passed the hyperfocal distance, because the far limit is then genuinely unbounded rather than merely very large.
Near limit
2.358 m
Far limit
4.12 m
Depth in front of subject
0.642 m
Circle of confusion used
0.0288 mm

Background.

This depth of field calculator returns the near limit, the far limit and the total depth of the zone that will look acceptably sharp in your photograph, from four things you already know: the sensor in your camera, the focal length engraved on the lens, the f-number you are shooting at, and how far away you focused. It also reports the circle of confusion it used, because that single assumption drives every other number and most depth of field calculators hide it.

Depth of field is not a physical boundary. Exactly one plane in the scene is in focus; everything else is a disc rather than a point on the sensor. What we call "depth of field" is a tolerance: the range of distances over which that disc stays smaller than a diameter a viewer will not notice. That diameter is the circle of confusion, and it is a choice. Choose a looser one and your depth of field doubles without a single physical thing changing. This page uses the convention published by Carl Zeiss in their technical article on depth of field and bokeh — the circle of confusion is the sensor diagonal divided by 1500, which works out at about 0.029 mm on full frame and matches the 0.03 mm figure the industry has used since the film era. A second, stricter option divides the diagonal by 3000, which Zeiss calls the strictest sensible requirement, for when you intend to inspect the file at 100 % or print very large.

The sensor format matters twice over, and the two effects pull in the same direction. A smaller sensor has a smaller diagonal, so it gets a smaller circle of confusion — a Micro Four Thirds frame is held to 0.0144 mm where full frame is held to 0.0288 mm, because the same print requires twice the enlargement. That alone would halve depth of field. But a smaller sensor also needs a shorter focal length to frame the same subject, and depth of field grows with the inverse square of focal length. The second effect wins comfortably, which is why phone and Micro Four Thirds cameras appear to have limitless depth of field and medium format appears to have almost none. Enter the actual focal length on your lens barrel here, not the 35 mm equivalent: a 25 mm Micro Four Thirds lens is 25 mm, and the calculator handles the format difference through the sensor selection.

The two other levers behave in familiar ways but not in linear ones. Stopping down from f/2.8 to f/5.6 halves the hyperfocal distance and roughly doubles depth of field near the subject, but the exact near and far limits move asymmetrically. Depth of field also grows roughly with the square of the focus distance, so the zone that measures a few millimetres at a macro working distance measures metres across a landscape at the same aperture. And the split is never symmetrical: at the default settings on this page, 36 % of the sharp zone sits in front of the subject and 64 % behind, which is where the familiar "one third in front" rule of thumb comes from — but that ratio is only true near this particular relationship between focus distance and hyperfocal distance, tending to 50/50 in macro work and to nearly all-behind as the focus distance approaches the hyperfocal point.

When the focus distance reaches the hyperfocal distance the far limit does not become large — it becomes infinite, and this calculator says so in words instead of returning a misleadingly precise huge number. Below the widget you will find the exact equations, a worked 50 mm f/8 example computed by hand, the derivation of why the circle of confusion is a viewing-conditions decision rather than an optical constant, what the thin-lens model gets wrong about real lenses with internal focusing, and how to translate a depth of field figure into a practical focusing decision on a landscape, a portrait or a product shot.

What is depth of field calculator?

Depth of field is the range of object distances that a lens renders with a blur circle small enough to be accepted as sharp under stated viewing conditions. Three quantities define it. The first is the circle of confusion, c: the largest blur diameter on the sensor that the viewer will not resolve. It is derived from human visual acuity, roughly two arc minutes, projected back through an assumed enlargement and viewing distance — the standard result is that c should be about 1/1500 of the frame diagonal for a print viewed at its diagonal, or 1/3000 for critical inspection. The second is the hyperfocal distance, H = f²/(N·c) + f, which is the focus distance at which the far limit of sharpness first reaches infinity. The third is the focus distance itself, s, measured from the lens front principal plane. From these, the near and far limits are Dn = s(H − f)/(H + s − 2f) and Df = s(H − f)/(H − s). Notice that both collapse neatly at s = H: the near limit becomes exactly H/2 and the far limit becomes infinite, which is the origin of the landscape photographer's rule that focusing at the hyperfocal distance yields sharpness from half that distance to the horizon. Everything here is a thin-lens, symmetric-pupil approximation with distances measured from a principal plane you cannot see and manufacturers rarely publish. It is accurate to well within the precision of a focus scale for normal subject distances, and it degrades in two situations: at high magnification, where the pupil magnification of the lens starts to matter, and on modern internally-focusing lenses, whose focal length changes as they focus closer. Depth of field is also not the same thing as depth of focus, which is the tolerance on the image side, inside the camera, and depends only on the f-number and the circle of confusion — not on focal length at all.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Pick your sensor format. This sets the circle of confusion and is the single most consequential choice on the page. If your camera is not listed, choose Custom and enter the imaging-area width and height in millimetres from your camera's own specification sheet.
  2. Enter the focal length actually engraved on the lens, in millimetres — not the 35 mm equivalent. The sensor selection already accounts for the format difference, so entering an equivalent focal length would apply the crop factor twice.
  3. Enter the working f-number: 8 for f/8, 1.4 for f/1.4. Use the aperture the exposure is actually made at. If you are focusing wide open and stopping down to shoot, the depth of field you get is the one from the taking aperture.
  4. Enter the focus distance in metres, measured from the camera to the plane you focused on. Convert feet by multiplying by 0.3048 (10 ft = 3.05 m). It must be larger than the focal length or no real image is formed.
  5. Choose the sharpness standard. Use Standard for prints and screen viewing at normal sizes; use Critical if you intend to pixel-peep at 100 % or print beyond about A2, where the 1500 divisor stops being conservative enough.
  6. Read the total depth of field first. If it says "infinite", your focus distance has reached the hyperfocal distance and everything from the near limit to the horizon is within tolerance — check the hyperfocal distance calculator to find the shortest focus distance that achieves it.
  7. Compare the depth in front of the subject against the total depth to see where the sharp zone actually sits. In portrait work the answer is usually "less in front than you think", which is why focusing on the near eye rather than the face matters at wide apertures.
  8. Treat the result as a planning tool with a tolerance, not a guarantee. Focus accuracy, diffraction at very small apertures, subject movement and lens field curvature all eat into the theoretical figure.

The formula.

H = f²/(N·c) + f · Dn = s(H−f)/(H+s−2f) · Df = s(H−f)/(H−s)

Work in millimetres throughout. First the circle of confusion:

c = sensor diagonal / 1500 (standard) c = sensor diagonal / 3000 (critical)

For full frame the diagonal is √(36² + 24²) = 43.2666 mm, so c = 0.028844 mm standard, 0.014422 mm critical. Carl Zeiss's own depth of field charts are labelled "Format 24 x 36, z = 0.029 mm, D/1500", which is the same number.

Next the hyperfocal distance:

H = f² / (N · c) + f

Zeiss give this as Dist_hyperfocal = f'²/(z'·k) with z' the circle of confusion and k the f-number; the trailing + f is the exact form and is negligible except at macro distances. The physical meaning is neat: at the hyperfocal distance the object-side blur circle for an infinitely distant point is exactly the diameter of the entrance pupil, f/N.

Then the limits:

Dn = s (H − f) / (H + s − 2f) Df = s (H − f) / (H − s)

These are the exact forms, not the small-aperture approximations that drop the f terms. Two self-checks confirm them. Setting s = H gives Dn = H(H − f)/(2(H − f)) = H/2 exactly — the classic hyperfocal result. And Df diverges precisely at s = H, not slightly before or after, so the transition to an infinite far limit happens at the right place. When H − s ≤ 0 the far limit is genuinely infinite and this calculator returns the word rather than a number, because clamping infinity to a large finite value would misreport the physics.

The scaling laws fall straight out of these expressions. Because H depends on f², depth of field at a fixed distance is roughly inversely proportional to the square of the focal length; because H depends on 1/N, stopping down two stops roughly halves it; and because Dn and Df both scale with s against a fixed H, depth of field grows roughly with the square of the focus distance while s is small compared with H. Sensor size enters only through c, but because a smaller sensor needs a shorter lens for the same framing, the f² term dominates and small formats end up with far more depth of field at the same f-number and framing.

What the model does not include: diffraction, which softens the whole frame past roughly f/11 on full frame and f/5.6 on Micro Four Thirds and can make a technically deeper zone look worse; field curvature and residual aberrations, which mean the plane of focus is rarely flat; pupil magnification, which shifts the effective aperture at high magnification; and focus breathing on internally-focusing lenses, whose focal length shortens as they focus closer, making the true depth slightly larger than calculated at close range.

A worked example.

Example

A full-frame camera with a 50 mm lens set to f/8, focused on a subject 3.00 m away, using the standard diagonal ÷ 1500 sharpness criterion. The full-frame diagonal is √(36² + 24²) = 43.2666 mm, so the circle of confusion is 43.2666 / 1500 = 0.028844 mm. The hyperfocal distance is H = 50² / (8 × 0.028844) + 50 = 2500 / 0.230755 + 50 = 10,833.99 + 50 = 10,883.99 mm, or 10.88 m. Because the focus distance of 3000 mm is well inside that, the far limit is finite. The near limit is Dn = 3000 × (10,883.99 − 50) / (10,883.99 + 3000 − 100) = 32,501,965 / 13,783.99 = 2357.95 mm, so 2.36 m. The far limit is Df = 3000 × 10,833.99 / (10,883.99 − 3000) = 32,501,965 / 7883.99 = 4122.53 mm, so 4.12 m. Total depth of field is 4.12 − 2.36 = 1.76 m, of which 0.64 m lies in front of the subject and 1.12 m behind — 36 % in front, 64 % behind, close to but not exactly the familiar one-third rule. Two changes make the point about scaling. Open up to f/2.8 and the hyperfocal distance rises to 31.00 m, the zone shrinks to roughly 2.74 m to 3.32 m around the subject, and total depth collapses from 1.76 m to about 0.58 m. Switch instead to Micro Four Thirds with a 25 mm lens at f/8 — the same framing, since the crop factor is 2.0 — and the circle of confusion halves to 0.014427 mm while the focal length halves as well; the f² term dominates and total depth of field grows to roughly 3.8 m. That is the entire small-sensor depth of field advantage in one comparison, and it is why the sensor selector sits at the top of this page rather than the bottom.

aperture8
sensor FormatfullFrame
sharpness Standardstandard
custom Sensor Height24
focus Distance3
custom Sensor Width36
focal Length50

Frequently asked questions.

What circle of confusion does this calculator use, and why does it matter so much?
Standard mode uses the sensor diagonal divided by 1500 — 0.028844 mm on full frame, 0.018841 mm on Nikon DX, 0.017843 mm on Canon APS-C, 0.014427 mm on Micro Four Thirds, 0.036520 mm on 44 × 33 medium format. Critical mode uses the diagonal divided by 3000. The 1500 divisor comes from Carl Zeiss's technical article on depth of field and bokeh, which states that 1/1500 of the picture diagonal viewed at a visual angle of two arc minutes still provides satisfying sharpness and corresponds approximately to the 0.03 mm circle of confusion long used for the 35 mm format. It matters because depth of field is directly proportional to it: halve the circle of confusion and you halve the depth of field, with no physical change to the lens or the scene. Any calculator that gives a different answer from this one is almost certainly using a different circle of confusion, not a different formula. That is why this page reports the value it used as an output.
Why does a smaller sensor give more depth of field if it has a smaller circle of confusion?
Because the two effects work on different powers. A smaller sensor gets a proportionally smaller circle of confusion — Micro Four Thirds is held to 0.0144 mm against full frame's 0.0288 mm — which on its own would halve depth of field. But to frame the same subject from the same spot, the smaller sensor needs a focal length shorter by the same crop factor, and the hyperfocal distance goes as f². Halving the focal length divides f² by four while halving c only doubles the other side, so the net effect is a doubling of depth of field per stop of crop factor. Concretely: full frame at 50 mm f/8 focused at 3 m gives about 1.76 m of depth; Micro Four Thirds at 25 mm f/8 focused at 3 m, which frames identically, gives about 3.8 m. The equivalent-aperture shorthand captures this — a Micro Four Thirds lens at f/8 has the depth of field of a full-frame lens at f/16.
Should I enter my actual focal length or the 35 mm equivalent?
The actual focal length engraved on the lens. If you own a 25 mm Micro Four Thirds lens, enter 25 and select Micro Four Thirds as the sensor. Entering 50 (its 35 mm equivalent) together with the Micro Four Thirds sensor would apply the crop factor twice and give a badly wrong answer — roughly a quarter of the true depth of field. The equivalent focal length is a framing convenience, not an optical property: a 25 mm lens bends light like a 25 mm lens no matter what sensor sits behind it. If you want to work in equivalents, use the crop factor calculator to convert your equivalent focal length and equivalent aperture back to real values first.
Is the sharp zone really one third in front of the subject and two thirds behind?
Only in a narrow band of conditions, and this calculator shows you the real split rather than the folklore. At the default settings — full frame, 50 mm, f/8, 3 m — the split is 36 % in front and 64 % behind, which is close enough that the rule of thumb survives. But the ratio depends entirely on how the focus distance compares with the hyperfocal distance. In macro work, where the focus distance is a tiny fraction of the hyperfocal distance, the split approaches 50/50. As the focus distance climbs towards the hyperfocal distance the far limit runs away towards infinity and the split becomes overwhelmingly behind — at half the hyperfocal distance it is already about 1:3, and at the hyperfocal distance itself it is 1:infinity. Reading the "depth in front of subject" output against the total is more reliable than any rule.
Why does the far limit say "infinity" instead of a number?
Because it genuinely is infinite, and printing a large finite number would misreport what the optics do. Once the focus distance reaches the hyperfocal distance H = f²/(N·c) + f, the term (H − s) in the far-limit equation reaches zero and the far limit diverges: everything from the near limit out to the horizon falls within the acceptable blur tolerance. The transition is exact, not gradual. At that moment the near limit sits at exactly H/2. Many calculators clamp the far limit at some large value or print a very big number, which encourages the mistake of thinking there is more depth to gain by focusing further away — there is not; focusing beyond the hyperfocal distance only pushes the near limit further away for no benefit at the far end.
Does diffraction mean I should not just stop down to f/22 for more depth of field?
Correct, and this is the most common practical failure of a naive depth of field calculation. The equations here describe defocus blur only. Stopping down shrinks defocus blur but grows diffraction blur, whose Airy disc diameter scales with the f-number. Past roughly f/11 on full frame, f/8 on APS-C and f/5.6 on Micro Four Thirds, the diffraction spot approaches or exceeds the circle of confusion, so the whole frame — including the plane you focused on — begins to soften even as the calculated depth of field keeps growing. The nominal depth of field figure is still correct against its own criterion; it is the criterion that has become optimistic. In practice, if you need more depth than a moderate aperture gives, focus stacking or a tilt movement will beat f/22.
Where exactly is the focus distance measured from?
From the front principal plane of the lens, which is an abstract plane inside the optical system whose position manufacturers rarely publish. Camera focus scales, by contrast, are usually marked from the sensor plane (the ⊖ symbol on the top plate). The difference is the lens's internal length plus the flange distance and can be several centimetres. At normal subject distances this is a fraction of a percent of the answer and can be ignored; at macro distances it is a significant fraction and the calculated numbers become indicative rather than exact. This calculator also assumes a symmetric pupil, meaning the entrance and exit pupils are the same size, which is a good approximation for normal lenses and a poor one for strong retrofocus wide-angles and telephoto designs used at high magnification.
How is depth of field different from depth of focus?
Depth of field lives in the scene, in front of the camera; depth of focus lives inside the camera, at the sensor. Depth of focus is the tolerance on the sensor position for the image of a given object plane to stay acceptably sharp, and it is approximately 2·N·c — it depends only on the f-number and the circle of confusion, and not at all on focal length. That is why a shim of a few hundredths of a millimetre matters for sensor alignment at f/1.4 and not at f/16, and why the same lens focus adjustment tolerance is far tighter for fast lenses. The two are related through magnification but are not interchangeable, and answering "depth of field does not depend on focal length" — a claim that circulates widely — is only true if you mean depth of focus, or if you rescale the subject framing at the same time.
Which sensor sizes are included, and why is there no 1-inch preset?
Full frame at 36 × 24 mm, Nikon DX at 23.5 × 15.7 mm, Canon APS-C at 22.3 × 14.8 mm, Micro Four Thirds at 17.3 × 13.0 mm, and 44 × 33 medium format at 43.8 × 32.9 mm — each taken from a manufacturer's own published specification. There is deliberately no 1"-type preset: the "1 inch" label is a leftover from vidicon tube sizing and does not describe any measured dimension, and no official manufacturer specification page could be retrieved to confirm one. Rather than guess, this page offers a Custom option. Enter the imaging-area width and height from your own camera's specification sheet — for most 1"-type cameras that is quoted as 13.2 × 8.8 mm, but check yours. Note also that APS-C is not a standard: Nikon, Canon, Sony and Fujifilm APS-C sensors all differ slightly, which is why two presets are listed rather than one.
Why do different depth of field calculators disagree with each other?
Almost always because of the circle of confusion, occasionally because of the sensor dimensions, and very rarely because of the formula. Common circle of confusion conventions for full frame include 0.025 mm (the Zeiss diagonal ÷ 1730 variant), 0.029 mm (diagonal ÷ 1500, used here), 0.030 mm (the traditional film-era round number) and 0.035 mm (used in some manufacturer tables). Those span a factor of 1.4, so two calculators can differ by 40 % on total depth of field while both being internally correct. A second source of disagreement is whether the exact Dn and Df expressions are used or the simplified versions that drop the focal-length terms; the difference is negligible at normal distances and large in macro work. This page states its circle of confusion as an output so that any disagreement can be traced rather than guessed at.

References& sources.

  1. [1]Nasse, H. H. (2010). 'Depth of Field and Bokeh.' Carl Zeiss Camera Lens Division. States the circle-of-confusion convention used throughout this calculator: 'A circle of confusion twice as large, 1/1500 of the diagonal, viewed at a visual angle of 2 arc minutes, still provides a satisfying sharpness... this requirement corresponds approximately to the often used 0.03 mm circle of confusion for the 35 mm format', with 1/3000 of the diagonal given as the strictest sensible requirement. The same paper derives the hyperfocal relation Dist = f'²/(z'·k) and notes that the object-side circle of confusion at the hyperfocal distance equals the entrance pupil diameter.
  2. [2]Canon Inc. EOS R6 Product Manual, Specifications — Image Sensor. Gives the full-frame sensor size as 'Approx. 35.9×23.9 mm', the measured dimension behind the nominal 36 × 24 mm 135-format frame used by this calculator.
  3. [3]Nikon Corporation. D7500 Online Manual, Technical Notes — Specifications. Gives the Nikon DX sensor as '23.5 × 15.7 mm CMOS sensor' and states that DX focal lengths are 'equivalent to approx. 1.5×' the 35 mm format angle of view, the cross-check used to validate the diagonal-based crop factors in this calculator.
  4. [4]Canon Inc. EOS R7 Product Manual, Specifications. Gives the Canon APS-C sensor size as 'Approx. 22.3 × 14.8 mm', the dimensions used for the Canon APS-C preset.
  5. [5]OM Digital Solutions. OM SYSTEM OM-1 Mark II Specifications, Image Sensor. Lists 'Aspect ratio & area 4:3 / 17.3 x 13.0 mm' for the Four Thirds imaging area used by the Micro Four Thirds preset.
  6. [6]FUJIFILM Corporation. GFX100 II Specifications. Lists the image sensor as '43.8mm×32.9mm GFX 102MP CMOS II HS with primary color filter', the dimensions used for the medium-format preset.
  7. [7]Ray, S. F. (2002). Applied Photographic Optics: Lenses and Optical Systems for Photography, Film, Video, Electronic and Digital Imaging, 3rd ed. Focal Press. Standard reference for the exact near- and far-limit expressions Dn = s(H − f)/(H + s − 2f) and Df = s(H − f)/(H − s), for the distinction between depth of field and depth of focus, and for the pupil-magnification correction at high magnification.

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