Audited ·Last updated 27 Jul 2026·6 citations·Tier 1·0 uses

Car Loan Calculator

Free car loan calculator. Estimate your monthly auto payment, total interest, and all-in cost across the full term — with down payment, trade-in, tax, and fees.

Car Loan Calculator

The negotiated out-the-door price of the vehicle before sales tax and fees. Use the number on the buyer's order, not the MSRP on the window sticker.
$
Cash you put toward the purchase up front. A larger down payment lowers the loan amount and reduces the risk of going "upside down" on the loan.
$
Dealer credit for your old vehicle. In most U.S. states the trade-in is subtracted from the price before sales tax is computed, which reduces the taxable base.
$
Combined state and local sales tax rate on the vehicle. U.S. average is about 6–7%; some states (Oregon, Montana, New Hampshire, Delaware, Alaska) have no statewide vehicle sales tax.
%
Documentation, title, registration, and dealer fees rolled into the loan rather than paid in cash at closing. Every dollar you finance accrues interest for the full term.
$
Annual percentage rate quoted by the lender. The Federal Reserve's G.19 release showed new-car APRs averaging 7–8% and used-car APRs 11–13% across the major banks in early 2026.
%
Length of the loan in months. Common terms are 36, 48, 60, 72, and 84 months. Longer terms cut the monthly payment but multiply lifetime interest and increase negative-equity risk.
months
Monthly payment
$579.16
Scheduled principal-and-interest payment due each month. Does not include auto insurance, gap coverage, or registration renewals.
Amount financed
$29,600.00
Total interest paid
$5,149.48
Total cost of vehicle
$37,749.48
Payoff time
60 months

Background.

A car loan calculator turns the four or five numbers on a buyer's order into the only figures that should drive your purchase decision: what the vehicle costs you every month, what it costs you in interest, and what it actually costs you in total once the loan is paid off. Enter the negotiated vehicle price, your cash down payment, the credit you are getting for a trade-in, the sales tax rate in your state, any documentation or registration fees you are rolling into the loan, the APR your lender has approved, and the term in months, and the calculator runs the standard amortizing-loan formula plus the loan-amount derivation that almost every dealer F&I office uses. The output is your scheduled monthly payment, the principal you are actually financing once tax and fees are layered in, the total interest you will pay across the life of the loan, and an all-in total cost figure that is the closest thing to a true price tag on the vehicle.

How an auto loan works mechanically is no different from a mortgage or a personal loan — interest accrues every month on the remaining balance, you pay a fixed installment that retires both interest and principal, and the loan ends when the balance hits zero. What makes auto loans distinctive is the speed at which the asset depreciates relative to the speed at which the loan amortizes. A new car drops 20 to 30 percent in market value the moment you drive it off the lot, then loses another 15 to 20 percent over the first year. A typical 72- or 84-month loan, by contrast, takes two to three years just to chip the balance down by a comparable percentage — which is how borrowers end up "upside down" or in negative equity, owing more on the loan than the car is worth.

Three controls determine whether you stay right-side up. The first is the down payment: putting at least 20 percent down on a new car (or 10 percent on a used car) gives the loan a head start that depreciation cannot immediately erase. The second is the term: a 60-month loan amortizes fast enough that most borrowers cross into positive equity within the first 18 months; an 84-month loan can leave you underwater for the first four years. The third is the price itself — stretching the budget by lengthening the term to fit a more expensive car is the single most common mistake in the new-car market, and it is exactly what gives dealers room to upsell into trim levels and add-on packages.

The trade-in math also matters in ways that surprise first-time buyers. In most U.S. states, the dealer subtracts the trade-in value from the vehicle price before applying sales tax, so a $5,000 trade-in on a $30,000 car at a 7% rate saves you $350 in tax on top of the $5,000 reduction in the loan amount itself. Financing taxes and fees, on the other hand, costs you real money — every dollar rolled into the loan accrues interest at the APR for the full term, so a $500 doc fee on a 72-month loan at 7% costs you roughly $115 in interest, not $500.

This calculator gives you the monthly payment, the financed amount, the total interest, the all-in cost, and the payoff time. The explainer below walks through how to read each one, when a longer term actually makes sense, the 20/4/10 rule that most personal-finance writers use as a sanity check, and the difference between gap insurance and the optional warranty products the dealer will try to sell you in the F&I office.

What is car loan calculator?

An auto loan is an installment loan secured by the vehicle being financed. The lender disburses a lump sum to the dealer (covering the vehicle price plus sales tax and any financed fees, minus your down payment and trade-in), and you repay that principal plus interest in equal monthly installments under an amortization schedule. Each monthly payment is split between an interest charge — computed against the outstanding balance — and a principal reduction that brings the balance down. Because interest is charged on the unpaid balance, early payments are mostly interest and later payments are mostly principal. The lender holds a lien on the vehicle title until the loan is paid off; if you stop paying, the lender can repossess and sell the vehicle to recover the balance. Two terms come up constantly in auto-finance conversations and trip people up. The interest rate is the percentage used to calculate the monthly finance charge against the outstanding balance. The APR (annual percentage rate) is a federally-mandated disclosure under the Truth in Lending Act that bundles the interest rate with most lender fees — origination, certain documentation costs — annualized over the loan term. For most prime auto loans the rate and APR are within a fraction of a point of each other; for subprime loans the gap can widen meaningfully. "Upside down" or "underwater" describes a loan whose balance exceeds the vehicle's market value — almost guaranteed in the first year of a long-term loan with a small down payment because depreciation outruns amortization. Gap insurance covers the difference between what the car is worth and what you still owe if the vehicle is totaled or stolen while you are upside down. This calculator models the standard fixed-rate fully-amortizing auto loan that accounts for the vast majority of new and used vehicle financing in the United States. It does not model lease payments, simple-interest loans where interest accrues daily, balloon loans, or buy-here-pay-here arrangements with weekly payment schedules.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Enter the vehicle price you negotiated with the dealer — the out-the-door price line on the buyer's order, before sales tax. Do not enter MSRP unless that is what you actually agreed to pay.
  2. Enter your cash down payment. Personal-finance writers and the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau suggest at least 20% down on a new car and 10% on a used car to stay ahead of depreciation; if you cannot meet that threshold, consider a less expensive vehicle rather than a longer loan term.
  3. Enter the trade-in value the dealer is crediting toward the purchase. In most U.S. states this amount is subtracted from the vehicle price before sales tax is calculated, so the trade-in saves you both loan principal and a slice of tax. Confirm the tax treatment in your state.
  4. Enter the combined state and local sales tax rate on vehicles. The U.S. average is about 6–7%; Oregon, Montana, New Hampshire, Delaware, and Alaska have no statewide vehicle sales tax; California, Tennessee, and several others exceed 9% when local rates are layered in.
  5. Enter any documentation, title, registration, or dealer fees you plan to roll into the loan rather than pay in cash. Every dollar financed accrues interest at the APR for the full term — consider paying these fees out of pocket if you can.
  6. Enter the APR the lender quoted. If you have not yet shopped lenders, the Federal Reserve's G.19 release publishes the prevailing averages by credit tier each quarter; new-car APRs in early 2026 averaged 7–8% for prime borrowers and 11–13% for non-prime.
  7. Choose a term in months. 60 months is the canonical sweet spot for new cars; 36 or 48 months minimizes lifetime interest if you can afford the higher payment; 72 or 84 months should be a last resort because of the negative-equity risk.

The formula.

M = P × [ r(1+r)ⁿ ] ⁄ [ (1+r)ⁿ − 1 ]

The calculator computes the loan amount and the monthly payment in two steps. The loan amount derivation is: taxable base = max(0, vehicle price − trade-in value); tax amount = taxable base × sales tax rate; loan amount = vehicle price − down payment − trade-in value + tax amount + fees financed. This mirrors the standard U.S. F&I office worksheet — tax is assessed on the price net of trade-in (the convention in most states), and the financed amount includes the tax and any rolled-in fees because that is what the lender actually has to fund. The monthly payment then uses the standard amortizing-loan formula M = P × [r(1+r)^n] / [(1+r)^n − 1], where P is the loan amount, r is the monthly periodic rate (annual rate ÷ 100 ÷ 12), and n is the number of monthly payments. For the rare zero-percent promotional financing case the formula collapses to M = P / n. Total interest is M × n − P, and the all-in cost is vehicle price + tax + fees + total interest − trade-in credit. All currency arithmetic uses arbitrary-precision decimal math to avoid the floating-point rounding errors that show up in spreadsheet implementations on long terms.

A worked example.

Example

Take a $30,000 vehicle with a $3,000 cash down payment, no trade-in, a 7% state-and-local sales tax rate, $500 in doc and registration fees rolled into the loan, a 6.5% APR, and a 60-month term — about as average a 2026 new-car purchase as the data allows. Tax is assessed on the full $30,000 (no trade-in to subtract), so the tax amount is $2,100. The amount financed is $30,000 − $3,000 + $2,100 + $500 = $29,600. At 6.5% APR over 60 months, the monthly payment comes in at roughly $579.18. Multiply by 60 payments and the lender collects about $34,750 over the life of the loan — $5,150 in pure interest on top of the $29,600 you actually borrowed. The all-in cost of ownership, before insurance and fuel, is the $30,000 vehicle plus $2,100 in tax plus $500 in fees plus $5,150 in interest, or about $37,750 total. Stretch the same loan to 84 months and the monthly payment falls to about $446, but the total interest climbs above $7,800 — you save $133 a month for two extra years of payments and a 50% jump in finance charges. Cut the term to 36 months and the monthly payment jumps to about $908, but lifetime interest drops to roughly $3,070 — almost 40% less than the 60-month baseline.

vehicle Price30,000
annual Rate Percent6.5
term Months60
down Payment3,000
trade In Value0
fees Financed500
sales Tax Percent7

Frequently asked questions.

Should I take a 60-month, 72-month, or 84-month car loan?
60 months is the canonical sweet spot for new-car loans because it amortizes fast enough that most borrowers cross into positive equity within 18 to 24 months, before depreciation outpaces principal reduction. 72-month loans cut the monthly payment by 12–15% versus 60 months but add about 40% to lifetime interest and keep you upside down for three to four years; 84-month loans push the payment down further but multiply interest charges and leave the average borrower underwater for more than half the loan. Consumer Reports and the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau both flag long-term loans (75+ months) as a red flag — if you cannot afford a 60-month payment on the car you want, the personal-finance consensus is to buy less car, not to lengthen the term.
How does a bigger down payment affect my monthly car payment?
Roughly linearly on the payment, and significantly on the interest you pay over the life of the loan. On a $30,000 vehicle at 6.5% APR for 60 months with $500 in financed fees and 7% sales tax, going from $0 down to $3,000 down drops the monthly payment from about $638 to about $579 — a savings of $59 a month and about $3,540 over the term in monthly cash flow. It also reduces lifetime interest by roughly $520. More importantly, a larger down payment is the single best protection against negative equity: 20% down on a new car typically keeps you above water from day one, while 0% down on a 72-month loan almost guarantees you are upside down for the first three years. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau's auto-loan shopping guide recommends 20% down on a new car and 10% on a used car as the baseline.
What is the difference between APR and interest rate on a car loan?
The interest rate (or note rate) is the percentage used to compute the monthly finance charge against your remaining balance. The APR is a federally-mandated Truth in Lending Act disclosure that bundles the interest rate with most lender fees — origination, certain documentation costs — annualized over the loan term. For most prime auto loans the two numbers are within a fraction of a percentage point of each other; for subprime loans, where lender fees are heavier, the APR can run a full point or more above the note rate. Always compare offers by APR, not the note rate — it normalizes for fee structures and reveals the true cost of the loan. This calculator accepts the APR figure (which is what most lenders quote first) and treats it as the rate used to compute interest accruals.
What is the 20/4/10 rule for car affordability?
The 20/4/10 rule is a personal-finance heuristic for keeping car ownership from crowding out the rest of your financial life. 20% down at purchase, 4-year maximum loan term, and total monthly transportation costs — loan payment, insurance, fuel, maintenance — no more than 10% of gross monthly income. The 20% down keeps you out of negative equity; the 4-year term forces the loan to amortize before the car has lost most of its value; the 10% cap keeps the car from eating into retirement, debt payoff, and emergency-fund contributions. Most Americans buying new cars in 2026 are well outside the 20/4/10 envelope — the average new-car loan term is now over 68 months and average payments routinely exceed 15% of gross income — which is why personal-finance writers keep dragging the rule back into the conversation.
Should I finance my sales tax and fees, or pay them in cash?
Pay them in cash if you can. Every dollar you roll into the loan accrues interest at the APR for the full term, so financed fees and tax cost you noticeably more than the sticker amount. On a 72-month loan at 7% APR, a $500 doc fee rolled into the financing costs you roughly $115 in interest on top of the $500 itself — a 23% premium. Financing the sales tax has the same effect but at larger absolute dollars; the $2,100 tax bill in the worked example above costs an extra $480 in interest if financed over 72 months. Cash up front is always cheaper. The only reason to finance these line items is a genuine liquidity constraint, and even then, the question is whether you should be buying a less expensive car.
What is the Rule of 78s and does my car loan use it?
The Rule of 78s is a method some lenders historically used to allocate interest disproportionately to the early months of a loan — meaning that if you paid the loan off early, you got back much less of the unearned interest than under standard actuarial amortization. The name comes from the sum of digits 1+2+...+12 = 78 for a one-year loan. For auto loans, the Rule of 78s has been banned on consumer credit longer than 60 months by federal law since the 1990s, and on consumer credit of any length in most states. Today, virtually all U.S. auto loans use simple actuarial interest, where prepayments reduce principal immediately and proportionally — but it is worth checking your contract. If "Rule of 78s" or "sum of the digits" appears, the loan is structured to penalize early payoff, and you should renegotiate or shop elsewhere.
What happens if I am upside down on my car when I want to trade it in?
Being upside down (or in negative equity) means you owe more on the loan than the vehicle is worth. When you trade in an upside-down vehicle, the dealer pays off the old loan and rolls the deficit into the new loan — meaning your new car loan now finances both the new vehicle and the negative equity from the old one. This stacks debt against a depreciating asset and is one of the fastest ways to spiral into an unmanageable loan balance. The cleaner exits are: keep the car until you have paid down enough principal to break even (run the math by amortizing your current loan another 6–18 months), pay the difference in cash at trade-in, or sell the car privately for more than the dealer would offer and use the surplus to close the gap. Edmunds' True Cost to Own data shows the average new-car buyer is underwater for about three years on a 72-month loan.
Do I need gap insurance on a car loan?
Gap insurance covers the gap between what you owe on the loan and what the vehicle is worth (per your auto insurer's payout) if the car is totaled or stolen. It is most valuable in exactly the period when you are upside down — typically the first one to three years of a loan with a small down payment and a long term. If you put 20% or more down and chose a 48- or 60-month term, you are likely never meaningfully upside down and gap coverage is mostly unnecessary. If you put 0–10% down on a 72- or 84-month loan, gap insurance is close to essential for the first two to three years. The dealer's gap product is usually 2–3x the price of the same coverage from your auto insurer or credit union — always shop it before signing in the F&I office.
How accurate is this calculator for used-car loans?
Equally accurate — the math is identical. The differences between new- and used-car financing are entirely on the input side. Used-car APRs are typically 3 to 5 percentage points higher than new-car APRs at the same credit tier (the Federal Reserve's G.19 data has shown new-car average APRs around 7–8% versus used-car around 11–13% in 2025–2026). Used-car loan terms are usually capped shorter (most lenders cap at 72 months for used vehicles older than 5 years). Used-car sales tax treatment is identical to new-car treatment in most states. Plug the used-car numbers in directly — the calculator does not need to know whether the vehicle is new or used.
Can I pay off my car loan early without a penalty?
In most cases yes. The federal Truth in Lending Act requires lenders to disclose any prepayment penalty in the loan documents, and most major U.S. auto lenders — banks, credit unions, captive finance arms (Toyota Financial, Ford Credit, etc.) — do not charge prepayment penalties on standard simple-interest auto loans. Some subprime lenders and buy-here-pay-here arrangements still do, and a handful of states permit a modest prepayment fee on loans below a certain threshold. Read the prepayment-penalty disclosure on the Truth in Lending statement before signing. If your loan uses simple actuarial interest (the standard), early payments reduce principal immediately and you save interest proportionally. If the loan uses the Rule of 78s (rare today but check the contract), early payoff saves much less because interest has been front-loaded.

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