Audited 25 May 2026·Last updated 27 Jul 2026·8 citations·Tier 1·0 uses

Loan Repayment Calculator

Free loan repayment calculator. Estimate your monthly payment, total interest, and accelerated payoff date when you add extra principal every month.

Loan Repayment Calculator

The amount the lender will actually disburse to you, net of origination fees if they are deducted upfront.
$
Use the interest rate from your loan agreement. If you only have the APR, that figure is close enough for personal loans because most lenders bundle fees in.
%
Length of the loan in years. Most unsecured personal loans run 2 to 7 years; auto loans 3 to 7; student loans 10 to 25.
yrs
Optional. Extra principal added to every scheduled payment. Confirm with your lender that prepayments are applied to principal, not the next month's interest.
$
Monthly payment
$512.91
Contractual scheduled principal-and-interest payment. The actual cash leaving your account each month is this figure plus any extra principal you elect to pay.
Total interest paid
$5,774.80
Total amount paid
$30,774.80
Payoff time
60 months

Background.

A loan repayment calculator turns three or four numbers into the only figure that actually matters when you sign a credit agreement: what this debt is going to cost you, every month and in total, from disbursement day to the day the balance hits zero. Enter the amount you are borrowing, the interest rate the lender quoted, the length of the term, and any extra principal you plan to pay on top of the scheduled payment, and the calculator runs the standard amortizing-loan formula plus a month-by-month simulation that captures exactly how much faster the loan disappears when you add fuel to the principal. The output is your contractual monthly payment, the total interest you will pay across the life of the loan, the cumulative total you will hand the lender, and the actual payoff month — which can be years earlier than the stated term if you prepay even modestly.

Three distinctions decide whether you are reading the calculator's output correctly. The first is the difference between interest rate and APR. The interest rate is the percentage used to calculate the monthly finance charge against your remaining balance — that is the figure the calculator's annual-rate field expects. The APR is a federally-mandated disclosure under the Truth in Lending Act that bundles the interest rate with origination fees and most other mandatory loan costs, annualized over the term. For personal loans where the only fee is origination, APR and interest rate are often within a percentage point of each other and either is fine for estimating the payment; for mortgages and auto loans where fee structures are more complex, always compare offers by APR and estimate the payment from the note rate.

The second distinction is APY, which describes how interest compounds on a deposit account — savings, CDs, money market funds — and has nothing to do with debt service. If a lender quotes you an APY on a loan, something is wrong. The third distinction is what extra payments actually do. When you send the servicer an extra hundred dollars, that money should reduce your principal balance immediately, which means next month's interest charge is calculated against a smaller number, which frees up more of the scheduled payment to retire principal, which compounds the saving for every remaining month.

On a $25,000 five-year personal loan at 8.5%, an extra $100 per month pays the loan off roughly ten months early and saves around $700 in interest — small in absolute terms because the loan is short, but meaningful as a percentage of total finance charges. On a $250,000 thirty-year mortgage at the same rate, the same $100 saves over $50,000 in interest and shortens the loan by more than four years. The shorter and smaller the loan, the less extra payments matter; the longer and larger the loan, the more they compound.

This calculator is built for the personal-loan and auto-loan case — short-to-medium term, fixed rate, equal monthly payments, no balloon. Use the mortgage calculator linked in the related-calculators sidebar for thirty-year home loans, and refer to the FAQs below for how to think about refinancing math and the secured-versus-unsecured tradeoff.

What is loan repayment calculator?

A loan is a sum of money advanced by a lender to a borrower in exchange for a promise to repay the principal with interest over a defined schedule. In the most common consumer structure — installment loans — the borrower repays the loan in equal monthly payments under an amortization schedule, with each payment split between an interest charge (calculated each month against the remaining principal balance) and a principal reduction (the amount by which the outstanding balance falls that month). Because interest is charged on the unpaid balance, the interest portion is largest at the start of the loan and shrinks every month as the balance is paid down, while the principal portion grows in mirror image. By the final payment, almost the entire installment is principal. The loan reaches a balance of zero at exactly month n × 12 (for a term of n years) when the borrower pays only the contractual amount; it ends earlier if the borrower prepays principal and the lender applies those prepayments to the balance rather than to future scheduled payments. This calculator models the standard fixed-rate, equal-payment, fully amortizing installment loan — the structure used for the vast majority of personal loans, auto loans, federal student loans on standard repayment, and home equity loans (not HELOCs). It does not model interest-only loans, balloon loans, simple-interest auto loans where interest is recomputed daily, or revolving credit lines such as credit cards and HELOCs.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Enter the loan amount the lender will actually disburse. If the lender deducts an origination fee from the disbursement (common with online personal lenders — often 1% to 8%), enter the post-fee amount you will receive, but be aware your finance charge is calculated on the original gross loan amount.
  2. Enter the annual interest rate from the loan agreement. For personal loans the rate and APR usually differ by less than a percentage point; for auto loans the APR is the better comparison metric across offers.
  3. Enter the term in years. Most unsecured personal loans run 2 to 7 years; auto loans typically 3 to 7; private student loans 5 to 20; federal student loans on standard repayment 10 years.
  4. Optional: enter an extra monthly principal payment. Even small amounts compound — confirm with your lender's servicing platform that prepayments are applied to principal reduction, not credited toward the next scheduled payment.
  5. Read the four outputs. Monthly payment is the contractual installment. Total interest is what the loan costs you in finance charges over its actual life. Total paid is principal plus interest. Payoff months tells you how many months sooner you finish when extra payments are in play.
  6. Compare scenarios. Change one input at a time. Shortening the term raises the monthly payment but cuts total interest sharply; dropping the rate has a smaller effect on the monthly payment than most borrowers expect; extra payments shorten the payoff dramatically only when applied early in the schedule.

The formula.

M = P × [ r(1+r)ⁿ ] ⁄ [ (1+r)ⁿ − 1 ]

The contractual monthly payment uses the standard amortizing-loan formula M = P × [r(1+r)^n] / [(1+r)^n − 1], where P is the loan principal, r is the periodic monthly rate (annual rate ÷ 100 ÷ 12), and n is the total number of monthly payments (term in years × 12). For the rare zero-interest case the formula collapses to M = P / n. The calculator then runs a month-by-month amortization loop to compute the actual interest paid and the true payoff month, which matters whenever the extra-payment field is non-zero. Each month the simulator charges interest equal to the remaining balance times r, applies the contractual payment plus any extra principal, and reduces the balance accordingly. The loop terminates the moment the balance reaches zero. All currency arithmetic uses arbitrary-precision decimal math to avoid the floating-point rounding errors that plague spreadsheet implementations on long terms. Total paid is the sum of every scheduled installment plus every extra payment actually made; total interest is total paid minus principal.

A worked example.

Example

Take a $25,000 personal loan at 8.5% for 5 years with no extra payments — a typical debt-consolidation profile in 2026. The contractual monthly payment lands at $512.95. Multiply by 60 payments and the lender will collect $30,777.00 over the life of the loan, meaning $5,777.00 in pure interest on top of the $25,000 you borrowed. Now add $100 extra per month to that same loan. The contractual payment stays at $512.95, but the actual monthly outflow rises to $612.95, the loan pays off in 50 months instead of 60, and your total interest falls to roughly $4,775 — a saving of about $1,000 in finance charges for the same overall budget. Drop the rate from 8.5% to 6.5% on the original no-extra scenario and the monthly payment falls to $489.15, total interest collapses to about $4,349, and the case for refinancing — if you can absorb the closing costs — gets clearer.

extra Monthly Payment0
annual Rate8.5
loan Amount25,000
term Years5

Frequently asked questions.

What is the difference between interest rate, APR, and APY on a loan?
The interest rate (also called the note rate) is the percentage used to calculate the monthly finance charge against your remaining loan balance — it is the figure this calculator's annual-rate field expects. The APR (annual percentage rate) is a federally-mandated disclosure under the Truth in Lending Act that bundles the interest rate with origination fees and most other mandatory loan costs, annualized over the term, so it is always equal to or higher than the note rate. Always compare loan offers by APR — it normalizes for fee structures and reveals the true cost of credit. APY (annual percentage yield) describes how interest compounds on a deposit account — savings, CDs, money market accounts — and has nothing to do with debt service. If a lender ever quotes APY on a loan, treat it as a red flag.
How do extra monthly payments shorten a loan?
When you pay extra principal, the loan balance drops faster than the amortization schedule expects. Because next month's interest is calculated against that smaller balance, less of next month's scheduled payment goes to interest and more goes to principal, which shrinks the balance still further. The effect compounds for every remaining month. On a $25,000 five-year loan at 8.5%, an extra $100 per month pays the loan off about 10 months early and saves around $1,000 in interest. The same $100 per month on a $250,000 thirty-year mortgage at 8.5% saves over $50,000 in interest and shortens the loan by more than four years. Extra payments matter more when the loan is large and the term is long — the more compounding the principal has to do, the more cutting into it pays back.
Should I refinance my loan? How do I run the math?
Refinancing replaces an existing loan with a new one at (usually) a lower rate. The math is a straight break-even calculation: divide the closing costs of the new loan by the monthly payment savings to get the number of months until the refi pays for itself, then ask whether you will hold the loan that long. For personal loans the closing costs are often just an origination fee on the new loan — if the rate drop more than offsets the new origination, refinancing is usually worthwhile. For mortgages the closing costs are heavier (often 2% to 5% of the loan amount), so a rule of thumb among loan officers is that refinancing makes sense when the new rate is at least 0.75 to 1.00 percentage point below the old rate. Run this calculator twice — once at the old terms, once at the new — and compare total interest from today forward, not the lifetime total of the original loan.
What is the difference between a secured and an unsecured loan?
A secured loan is backed by collateral the lender can seize if you default — your house in a mortgage, your car in an auto loan, your deposit in a passbook loan. Because the lender's risk is lower, secured loans almost always carry lower interest rates and longer permitted terms. An unsecured loan — most personal loans, credit cards, federal student loans — is backed only by your promise to repay and your credit history, so the lender prices in default risk by charging a higher rate. The Federal Reserve's G.19 Consumer Credit release showed unsecured personal loan rates in the 11% to 13% range in early 2026, versus roughly 7% to 9% for new auto loans (secured by the vehicle). Unsecured loans are easier to walk away from in bankruptcy but cost more in interest; secured loans are cheaper but put a specific asset at risk.
Is the interest on a personal loan tax-deductible?
Generally no. Under IRS rules, interest on personal-use consumer loans — debt consolidation, vacation financing, general personal expenses, most auto loans — is not deductible on your federal return. The deductible categories are narrow: home mortgage interest (subject to the IRS Publication 936 limits), student loan interest (capped at $2,500 per year and subject to income phase-outs), investment interest expense (deductible against investment income on Form 4952), and interest on loans used in a trade or business. If you used a personal loan specifically to fund a business expense or an investment purchase, the interest may be deductible against that activity — keep documentation that traces the loan proceeds to the deductible use. Always consult a tax advisor before claiming a non-obvious interest deduction.
Why does the loan calculator show interest charges so much higher than I expected?
Because interest compounds against the entire outstanding balance every month for the full life of the loan. On a $25,000 loan at 8.5% for 5 years, you will pay $5,777 in interest — 23% on top of the principal. Stretch that same loan to 10 years and the total interest more than doubles to about $12,300, even though the rate has not changed. Two levers control your lifetime interest bill: the rate (which you negotiate by shopping lenders and improving your credit score) and the term (which you control directly by choosing the shortest term you can comfortably afford). The monthly payment is what shows up in your budget, but the total interest is what shows up in your net worth.
What credit score do I need for the best personal loan rate?
Most online personal lenders reserve their lowest advertised rates for borrowers with FICO scores of 740 and above. Scores from 670 to 739 typically qualify but at a 2 to 5 percentage point premium; scores below 670 face steep rate increases or outright denial. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau's annual reports on consumer credit document that borrowers in the lowest score bands often pay APRs above 30%, where the math of personal-loan consolidation stops working. If your score is below 700, check a free credit report at annualcreditreport.com, dispute any errors, and pay down revolving balances before applying — small score improvements can translate into meaningful rate reductions.
Does this calculator handle credit-card debt or HELOC payoffs?
No. Credit cards and home equity lines of credit (HELOCs) are revolving accounts, not installment loans — the balance moves up and down as you charge and pay, and most lenders compute interest daily on the average balance rather than monthly on a fixed schedule. The minimum payment is also recalculated each month rather than being fixed for the life of the account. For credit-card payoff math, use a credit-card payoff calculator that supports variable minimum payments and daily compounding. For HELOC payments during the draw period, use an interest-only payment calculator; for the repayment period, this calculator approximates the math reasonably well if the rate is fixed for the repayment phase.
What is loan amortization and why does the early principal portion seem so small?
Amortization is the process of gradually retiring a loan through scheduled installments that combine interest and principal. Because interest is charged each month against the remaining balance — which is highest at the start — most of an early payment goes to interest and only a thin slice reduces principal. On a fresh $25,000 five-year loan at 8.5%, the first month's interest alone is $25,000 × 8.5% ÷ 12 = $177.08, leaving only $335.87 of the $512.95 payment to reduce principal. As the balance falls, the interest charge shrinks and a larger share of each payment goes to principal. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau publishes a clear amortization explainer and offers a free schedule generator that shows the month-by-month split for any loan.
Can I trust the payoff date from this calculator if my lender uses daily simple interest?
Mostly yes, with a small caveat. Most personal loans, federal student loans, and mortgages use monthly compounding — exactly the model this calculator runs — so the payoff date will be accurate to within a day or two of what your servicer reports. Many auto loans and some private student loans use daily simple interest, which means interest accrues every day on the outstanding balance and is collected at each scheduled payment. The total interest paid is very close to the monthly-compounding figure (typically within 0.5%), and the payoff date is essentially identical when payments are made on or before their due date. If you frequently pay late, daily simple-interest loans charge more interest because the balance carries the accrued interest longer; the monthly model in this calculator will then slightly understate your actual payoff cost.

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