Audited ·Last updated 27 Jul 2026·7 citations·Tier 1·0 uses

Mortgage Affordability Calculator

Free mortgage affordability calculator. Use the 28/36, FHA 29/41, or 31/43 DTI rule to find how much house you can afford based on income, debts, and rate.

Mortgage Affordability Calculator

Pre-tax household income. Use the figure that will appear on the lender's W-2 or 1099 income verification — bonuses and overtime only count if they have a two-year history.
$
Minimum monthly payments on car loans, student loans, credit cards, child support, and alimony. Utilities, groceries, and insurance do not count.
$
Cash you will bring to closing toward the purchase price. A down payment below 20% on a conventional loan will trigger private mortgage insurance (PMI).
$
Rate quoted on the lender's loan estimate. Freddie Mac's 30-year fixed averaged 6.51% in May 2026 — most affordability scenarios round to 7% to leave a safety margin.
%
Loan term
Effective property tax as a percent of home value. The U.S. national median is roughly 1.0%; New Jersey averages 2.2%, Hawaii under 0.3%.
%
Yearly hazard insurance premium. The Insurance Information Institute reports a U.S. average around $1,400–$1,800 per year for a single-family home.
$
Monthly homeowners association or condo dues, if any. Lenders include HOA in the back-end DTI calculation.
$
Debt-to-income rule
Max home price
$305,943.59
The largest purchase price you can support under the selected DTI rule, holding all other inputs constant. Loan amount plus your down payment.
Max loan amount
$285,943.59
Max monthly PITI payment
$2,333.33
Principal & interest
$1,902.39
Monthly property tax
$305.94
Monthly insurance
$125.00
Front-end ratio
28.00%
Back-end ratio
28.00%

Background.

A mortgage affordability calculator answers the question every prospective homebuyer asks first: how much house can I actually afford? Not how much house a real-estate agent thinks you can afford, and not how much house a lender's preapproval will quote you — the honest number that comes out when you stop treating the mortgage as an isolated line item and start treating it as one slice of your total monthly cash flow.

The framework underwriters use is a pair of debt-to-income ratios. The front-end ratio caps your monthly housing payment as a percentage of gross monthly income. The back-end ratio caps housing plus every other recurring debt obligation — car loans, student loans, minimum credit-card payments, child support — as a percentage of the same gross income.

The classic 28/36 rule, written into Fannie Mae's Selling Guide B3-6-02, sits at the conservative end: housing under 28%, total debt under 36%. The Federal Housing Administration loosens this to 29/41 for FHA-insured loans, recognising that FHA borrowers tend to have less cushion to absorb shocks but tighter underwriting on the loan itself. Conventional lenders working with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau's Qualified Mortgage (QM) rule under 12 CFR §1026.43 will stretch as high as 31/43 when the borrower has heavy student-loan debt but documented income stability — the structure the FHFA explicitly permits when a higher back-end ratio is offset by compensating factors. Picking the right rule is the first decision this calculator forces you to make, because the same income produces very different affordability ceilings under each one.

The second thing this calculator captures, that simple monthly-payment calculators do not, is that your real housing cost is not just principal and interest. It is PITI — principal, interest, taxes, and insurance — plus any HOA dues. Property tax in the United States averages roughly 1% of home value annually but ranges from under 0.3% in Hawaii to over 2.2% in New Jersey, and it scales with the price of the house, which means a more expensive home pushes its own tax bill up and compresses the room left for principal and interest.

Homeowners insurance adds another $100–$200 per month for most single-family homes. Private mortgage insurance (PMI) kicks in on conventional loans whenever your down payment is below 20% of the purchase price — that is, whenever your loan-to-value ratio exceeds 80% — and typically runs 0.3% to 1.5% of the loan amount per year until you reach 78% LTV under the Homeowners Protection Act. HOA dues, which the lender will absolutely include in your DTI calculation, can add another $150–$600 per month for condominium and planned-community properties. All of this comes out of the same DTI cap that has to cover the mortgage itself, so the more your tax, insurance, and HOA take, the smaller the loan — and the smaller the house — that fits inside the rule.

This calculator solves that interaction directly. You enter your gross income, your monthly debts, the cash you have ready for a down payment, the rate the lender quoted you, the loan term, your county's effective property-tax rate, your insurance estimate, any HOA dues, and the DTI rule that fits your loan program. The engine computes your PITI cap from your income, subtracts insurance and HOA, then runs a fixed-point iteration on price and tax — because tax depends on the price you can afford and the price you can afford depends on the tax — until the two converge. The output is your maximum supportable purchase price, the maximum loan that supports, the full PITI breakdown at that price, and the front-end and back-end DTI ratios you will land on.

Treat the result as a ceiling, not a target. The 28/36 rule was written for the underwriter, not for you — it tells the bank when they can sell the loan to Fannie Mae, not whether you will be comfortable making the payment in year seventeen when the roof needs replacing and your kids start college.

What is mortgage affordability calculator?

Mortgage affordability is the largest home purchase price a borrower can support under a lender's debt-to-income (DTI) rules, given the borrower's income, recurring debts, available down payment, and the costs of the loan itself. It is distinct from mortgage preapproval — preapproval is the lender's written estimate of what they will lend you, often based on a less complete picture; affordability is the number that falls out of an explicit application of underwriting rules to your finances. The two standard DTI ratios are the front-end ratio (housing expense / gross income) and the back-end ratio (housing expense + other debts / gross income). Different loan programs apply different caps. Fannie Mae's conventional conforming loans use 28% front and 36% back as the comfort target, with overlay flexibility up to 45% back when compensating factors exist. FHA loans, per HUD Handbook 4000.1 Section II.A.4.b, target 29% front and 41% back. The CFPB's Qualified Mortgage rule caps total back-end DTI at 43% for the safe-harbor QM designation, which is where most conventional loans for borrowers with significant student debt land. Housing expense in every program means full PITI — principal, interest, taxes, and insurance — plus PMI if applicable and any HOA dues, not just the mortgage payment itself.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Enter your gross annual household income. Use the pre-tax figure your lender will verify against W-2s or two years of 1099s. Bonus, commission, and overtime only count if you have a documented two-year history.
  2. Enter your monthly debt payments. Add up the minimum monthly amounts on car loans, student loans (including income-driven repayment amounts), credit cards, personal loans, child support, and alimony. Do not include utilities, groceries, or insurance premiums.
  3. Enter your planned down payment in cash. Anything under 20% of the eventual purchase price will trigger PMI on a conventional loan or upfront MIP plus annual MIP on an FHA loan.
  4. Enter the annual interest rate the lender quoted, or use the Freddie Mac weekly average as a starting estimate. The default of 7% leaves a small cushion above current market rates.
  5. Pick a loan term. Most buyers default to 30 years; 15-year terms cut total interest in half but raise the monthly payment by 40–50%, which shrinks the affordable price by a similar percentage.
  6. Enter the property-tax rate for the county where you plan to buy. County assessor websites publish the effective rate; if you don't know it, leave the default 1.2% — close to the national median.
  7. Enter your homeowners insurance estimate (annual). $1,500/year is a reasonable national average for a single-family home; condo HO-6 policies run lower, coastal and wildfire zones much higher.
  8. Enter any monthly HOA dues for the type of property you are targeting. Lenders include HOA in the back-end ratio.
  9. Pick a DTI rule. Use 28/36 for a conservative conventional benchmark, 29/41 for FHA, or 31/43 if you carry significant student-loan or other consumer debt and need the back-end stretch.
  10. Read the max home price as a ceiling. The front-end and back-end ratios will tell you which side of the rule you are bumping up against — if the front-end is lower than the rule's limit, your debts are constraining you; if the front-end is hitting the limit, your income is.

The formula.

Loan = PI × [ 1 − (1+r)⁻ⁿ ] ⁄ r

The calculator works in two stages. First it computes your PITI cap — the maximum monthly housing payment the DTI rule allows. The front-end constraint gives PITI_front = (monthly income) × front limit. The back-end constraint gives PITI_back = (monthly income) × back limit − monthly debts. Your PITI cap is the smaller of the two, because both rules must be satisfied. Second, it computes the home price that exactly consumes that cap. This is harder than it looks because property tax is a percent of home price, not a fixed dollar amount, so tax depends on price and price depends on tax. The calculator handles this with a fixed-point iteration. It starts with price = 0, computes the implied monthly tax (price × annual tax rate / 12), subtracts that tax plus monthly insurance plus HOA from the PITI cap to get the maximum principal-and-interest payment available, then uses the standard present-value annuity formula loan = PI × (1 − (1+r)^−n) / r to back out the supported loan amount. Add the down payment and you have a new price; feed that price back in and recompute. Ten iterations is always sufficient to converge to within a dollar. The final outputs report the converged max home price, the loan amount (price minus down payment), the PITI cap, the breakdown into principal-and-interest plus tax plus insurance, and the two DTI ratios you land at. The arithmetic uses arbitrary-precision Decimal math so the iteration is reproducible to the cent regardless of the magnitude of the inputs.

A worked example.

Example

Take a $100,000 household income with zero existing monthly debts, $20,000 saved for a down payment, a quoted rate of 7% on a 30-year fixed, the national-median 1.2% property-tax rate, a $1,500/year insurance estimate, no HOA, and the conservative 28/36 conventional DTI rule. Monthly income is $8,333. The front-end cap (28%) sets PITI at $2,333; the back-end cap (36% of $8,333 minus $0 of debt) is $3,000, which doesn't bind because the front-end is lower. So your PITI cap is $2,333. Subtract $125/month of insurance ($1,500 ÷ 12) and start iterating. After ten rounds the price converges to roughly $311,000, which finances a $291,000 loan at $1,937/month of principal and interest, $311/month of property tax, and $125/month of insurance — totaling almost exactly the $2,333 cap. Front-end ratio lands at 28% (the binding constraint) and back-end at 28% as well (no other debts). Add $500/month of student-loan debt and the back-end starts to bind: max PITI drops to $2,500 minus $500 = $2,000, max home price falls to roughly $260,000, and the back-end ratio rises to 36%. Switch the rule to FHA 29/41 with that same $500 student-loan payment and the cap loosens — PITI cap rises to roughly $2,917, max home price climbs back above $385,000, and the back-end ratio settles around 41%.

monthly Debts0
annual Income100,000
annual Rate Percent7
annual Insurance1,500
annual Property Tax Percent1.2
down Payment20,000
dti Rule28-36
monthly Hoa0
term Years30

Frequently asked questions.

Where does the 28/36 rule come from?
The 28% front-end and 36% back-end caps trace back to underwriting standards Fannie Mae codified in the 1980s and 1990s as it built the conforming-loan secondary market. The rule is currently embedded in the Fannie Mae Selling Guide section B3-6-02 on debt-to-income ratios. The logic is empirical, not theoretical — Fannie Mae's loss data showed that loans with housing expenses above roughly 28% of gross income or total debt above 36% had materially higher default rates over their first seven years. Freddie Mac uses substantially the same cutoffs. The 28/36 rule is technically a soft target with compensating-factor overlays that allow back-end ratios as high as 50% on the strongest borrowers, but most lenders treat it as the comfort zone.
How does the FHA 29/41 rule differ from conventional 28/36?
FHA loans are insured by the Federal Housing Administration and follow HUD Handbook 4000.1, which sets a front-end ratio target of 29% (housing expense including PITI plus MIP) and a back-end target of 41% (housing plus all other debt). FHA's caps are slightly looser than conventional because FHA borrowers typically have smaller down payments and the FHA insurance fund absorbs the loss tail. In practice, FHA underwriters will go as high as 46.99%/56.99% with documented compensating factors, but the 29/41 target is what borrowers should plan around. FHA also charges both an upfront mortgage insurance premium (1.75% of the loan amount) and an annual MIP (0.45%–0.85% of the loan, paid monthly), both of which count against the housing expense for the front-end ratio.
When does PMI apply, and how do I get rid of it?
Private mortgage insurance applies to conventional loans whenever the loan-to-value (LTV) ratio exceeds 80% — that is, whenever your down payment is below 20% of the purchase price. PMI premiums typically run 0.3%–1.5% of the loan amount per year, depending on credit score and LTV. The Homeowners Protection Act of 1998 requires the lender to automatically terminate PMI when the LTV is scheduled to reach 78% based on the original amortization schedule, regardless of the home's current value. You can also request cancellation earlier, at 80% LTV, if you can demonstrate the home has not lost value (usually requires an appraisal). FHA loans use MIP instead of PMI; for most current FHA loans, MIP lasts the entire life of the loan unless you put down 10% or more at origination, in which case it drops off after 11 years.
Is the affordability calculator the same as a preapproval?
No. A preapproval is a conditional commitment from a specific lender — they have pulled your credit, verified your income documents, and stated in writing what they are willing to lend you under their internal overlays. Lender overlays are often stricter than the published DTI rule, and they sometimes include compensating factors (like reserves or credit score) that this calculator does not see. Conversely, this calculator can be more conservative than a preapproval because it does not credit you for non-recurring income or assets that some lenders will count. Use the calculator to set a planning ceiling before shopping; use a preapproval before making an offer.
What counts as "income" for the affordability calculation?
Gross pre-tax income that the lender can verify and reasonably expect to continue for at least three years. For W-2 employees, this is base salary plus a two-year average of bonus, commission, and overtime if those have a documented history. For self-employed borrowers (Schedule C or 1099), it is the average of the last two years of net business income from tax returns, with certain depreciation and depletion deductions added back. Rental income counts at 75% of gross rents (the 25% haircut is for vacancy and maintenance). Investment income counts only if it is documented as recurring over the last two years. Lottery winnings, one-time bonuses, severance, and unemployment do not count. If your income includes large variable components, plan to enter the conservative two-year average rather than your best year.
Why does adding property tax and insurance shrink the affordable price so much?
Because PITI is what the rule caps, not just principal and interest. If the rule allows a $2,333 monthly housing payment and your taxes and insurance eat $400 of that, you only have $1,933 left for the actual mortgage payment — which at 7% on a 30-year term supports a loan of roughly $290,000 instead of the $350,000 you would otherwise qualify for. High-tax states like New Jersey, Illinois, and Texas compress the affordable price by 15–25% relative to low-tax states like Hawaii, Alabama, and Wyoming at the same income. This is also why the affordability cap moves so sharply when you change counties even at constant income.
Can I afford more if I make a bigger down payment?
Yes — but with a smaller marginal impact than most buyers expect. A larger down payment lowers your loan amount and therefore lowers your monthly principal-and-interest payment for any given price, which frees up some of the PITI cap. It also eliminates PMI once you cross 20%. But the cap itself is set by your income, not your down payment, so the additional house you can afford is limited to the extra loan principal that the freed-up PITI room can support. As a rule of thumb, every extra $20,000 of down payment buys you roughly $30,000–$40,000 of additional home price at current rates, plus the PMI savings. The bigger gain from a 20%-plus down payment is often the PMI removal, not the headline affordability number.
What is the Qualified Mortgage (QM) 43% rule?
The Qualified Mortgage rule under CFPB regulation 12 CFR §1026.43 is a safe-harbor designation that protects lenders from ability-to-repay lawsuits if the loan meets specific criteria, including a total debt-to-income ratio at or below 43%. Loans that exceed 43% back-end DTI can still be made, but they fall outside the QM safe harbor and lenders carry more legal exposure. Many lenders therefore treat 43% as a hard ceiling on conventional loans, especially for borrowers with thinner credit profiles. The 31/43 rule in this calculator reflects the QM ceiling and is the appropriate choice for borrowers with significant student-loan debt who still want a conventional loan.
How should I think about HOA dues in the affordability calculation?
Lenders treat monthly HOA dues exactly like a mortgage payment for the front-end and back-end DTI calculations — they come straight out of your PITI cap. A $300/month HOA payment will reduce the loan amount you can support by roughly $45,000 at 7% on a 30-year term. This is one reason condos and planned-community homes often look surprisingly less affordable than detached single-family homes at the same listing price. The HOA cost is also less predictable: associations can raise dues, levy special assessments for capital repairs, and pass through cost inflation in ways your mortgage payment cannot. Underwriters use the current dues figure, but you should sanity-check the HOA's most recent budget and reserve study before assuming today's dues are tomorrow's.
Should I borrow the maximum amount the calculator says I can afford?
Almost never. The 28/36 and 31/43 rules are designed to protect the lender from default risk, not to protect you from financial stress. They assume you have no emergency fund, no retirement savings goal, no future child-care or education costs, and no risk of income disruption. Most personal-finance planners recommend keeping total housing costs (PITI plus HOA plus maintenance reserve) below 25% of gross income — well inside the underwriting cap — and total fixed obligations below 50% of gross income including savings. Treat the calculator output as the lender's ceiling, then back off to a level that leaves you 20–30% headroom for retirement contributions, an emergency fund, and the maintenance costs (typically 1% of home value per year) that homeownership adds on top of PITI.

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