Audited 25 May 2026·Last updated 28 Oct 2026·5 citations·Tier 1·0 uses

Mortgage Points Calculator

See how many months of lower mortgage payments it takes to earn back discount points, and the net saving over the years you expect to keep the loan.

Mortgage Points Calculator

Principal borrowed.
$
Rate without points.
%
Points paid at closing.
points
Rate reduction each point buys, in percentage points: 0.25 means 25 basis points.
%
Expected retention period. Counted only up to the loan term, because payments end when the loan is repaid.
years
Original mortgage term in years.
years
Break-even months
60.02
Months of lower payments needed to recover the cash paid for the points; 0 if the points buy no saving.
Total cost with points
$313,349.26
Total cost without points
$319,345.20
Net savings
$5,995.94

Background.

A lender offers you 7.5 percent with no points, or 7.0 percent if you pay two points at closing. On a $400,000 loan those two points cost $8,000 in cash, and they cut the monthly payment by $135.65. Whether that is a good trade comes down to one question: will you keep this loan for more than 59 months?

That break-even month is the number to compare with your own plans. Before it, you have spent more on points than the lower payments have given back; after it, every month is profit. Buyers who expect to stay put for ten years and keep the same mortgage tend to come out ahead. Buyers who might move for a job, or who would refinance the moment rates drop, often do not. Points pay off best if rates stay level or rise, because a fall in rates is exactly what tempts you to refinance and throw away the rate you paid for.

The arithmetic is the standard fixed-rate payment formula run twice, once at the base rate and once at the bought-down rate. One point costs 1 percent of the loan amount, and the lender decides how much each point lowers the rate. Dividing the cost of the points by the monthly saving gives the break-even, and multiplying the saving by the months you expect to hold the loan, less the cost, gives the net saving.

Keep three simplifications in mind. The comparison counts payments only, so it leaves out the extra principal a lower rate pays down, which makes points look slightly worse than they are. It does not discount future savings, which makes them look slightly better. And it ignores taxes: under IRS Publication 936, points can be deductible as mortgage interest, but only if you itemize and meet the conditions.

What is mortgage points calculator?

Discount points are prepaid interest. You pay the lender a lump sum at closing, quoted as a percentage of the loan amount, and in return the lender lowers the interest rate for the life of the loan. One point is 1 percent of the amount borrowed, so on a $400,000 mortgage a point costs $4,000 and two points $8,000. How far each point lowers the rate is not fixed: it comes from the lender's pricing for that day, loan type and lock period. On the standard Loan Estimate, points appear in the Origination Charges section as a percentage of the loan amount, which is where to read both the cost and the rate it buys. The mirror image is a lender credit, where you accept a higher rate in exchange for money toward closing costs.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Enter the loan amount, the sum you are borrowing rather than the purchase price, since points are charged as a percentage of the loan.
  2. Enter the base interest rate the lender quotes with no points, taken from the same lender on the same day for the same loan, so that the only difference between the two offers is the points.
  3. Enter the number of discount points and the rate reduction each one buys, written in percentage points: 0.25 means a quarter of a percentage point, or 25 basis points. If the quote is 7.5 percent with no points or 7.0 percent with two, the reduction is 0.5 ÷ 2 = 0.25. Fractional quotes such as 0.375 or 1.125 points are common, and the points field moves in eighths.
  4. Enter the years you expect to keep this particular loan, which ends when you sell, refinance or pay it off, whichever you think comes first. If you enter more years than the loan term, the calculator counts only the term, because payments stop when the loan is repaid.
  5. Enter the loan term in years, usually 30 or 15, and compare the break-even months with the years you entered. A negative net saving means the points cost more than they returned over that period.

The formula.

t = C ⁄ ( M₀ − M₁ )

The monthly payment on a fixed-rate loan is M = P × r ÷ (1 − (1 + r)⁻ⁿ), where P is the loan amount, r the monthly rate (the annual percentage divided by 1,200) and n the number of monthly payments, 12 times the term. It is calculated twice: M₀ at the base rate and M₁ at the reduced rate, which is the base rate minus points × reduction per point and is never allowed below zero. The cost of the points is C = P × points ÷ 100.

Break-even t = C ÷ (M₀ − M₁), in months. It is left as a fraction, so 58.98 means the cost is recovered during the 59th payment. If the points buy no saving at all, including the case of zero points, the break-even is shown as 0. Over the H months you expect to hold the loan, total cost without points = M₀ × H, total cost with points = C + M₁ × H, and net savings = (M₀ − M₁) × H − C.

Three assumptions sit inside those lines. Payments are compared, not wealth: when you sell or refinance, the lower-rate loan has a smaller balance left, and that difference is not counted, so the real benefit of points is somewhat larger than shown. Savings are not discounted for the return the cash could have earned elsewhere, which pushes the other way. In the worked example, counting the lower balance would bring the break-even forward to about month 48, while discounting the savings at 4 percent a year would push it out to month 66. H is cut off at the end of the loan: if you enter more years than the term, only the payments that exist (12 times the term) are counted.

The break-even depends on the size of the rate cut relative to the cost and on the term, but not on the loan amount: doubling the loan doubles both the cost of the points and the monthly saving, leaving the months unchanged.

A worked example.

Example

A buyer borrowing $400,000 over 30 years is quoted 7.5 percent with no points, or two points with a 0.25 percent reduction for each. Two points cost 400,000 × 2 ÷ 100 = $8,000, and the rate falls to 7.5 − 2 × 0.25 = 7.0 percent. The payment formula gives $2,796.86 a month at 7.5 percent and $2,661.21 at 7.0 percent, a saving of $135.65. The break-even is 8,000 ÷ 135.65 = 58.98 months, so the points are paid for during the 59th payment, a little under five years in. The buyer expects to keep the loan for ten years, or 120 payments. Without points those payments total $335,622.96. With points they total $319,345.20, and adding the $8,000 gives $327,345.20. Ten years of the monthly saving come to $16,277.77, and after taking off the $8,000 the net saving is $8,277.77. The lower rate also clears principal faster. After those ten years the balance owed is $343,249.53 on the 7.0 percent loan against $347,179.95 on the 7.5 percent one, another $3,930.41 in the buyer's favour when the house is sold, which the net saving above does not include.

loan Term Years30
base Rate7.5
points Purchased2
holding Years10
loan Amount400,000
rate Reduction Per Point0.25

Frequently asked questions.

What happens if I sell or refinance before the break-even month?
You lose money on the points. In the example, keeping the loan for four years gives a net saving of −$1,488.89: 48 months of $135.65 savings recover only part of the $8,000. At five years the figure is just positive at $138.88, because the 58.98-month break-even falls inside the 60th month. At the other extreme, keeping the loan for all 30 years puts it at $40,833.30. Enter the shortest period you realistically expect, not the one you hope for.
Are discount points tax deductible?
They can be, as mortgage interest, if you itemize deductions. IRS Publication 936 lets you deduct points in full in the year paid on a loan to buy or build your main home when a list of conditions is met, including that the loan is secured by that home and that charging points is an established practice where you live. Points on a refinance are generally deducted over the life of the loan. None of this is included in the results.
How much should one point lower my rate?
There is no fixed rule; it comes from the lender's pricing for that day. A quarter of a percentage point per point is the default here, but the break-even is very sensitive to it. In the example, 0.125 per point stretches the break-even to 117.38 months, nearly ten years, while 0.375 per point brings it down to 39.51 months. Ask competing lenders for the rate with and without points on the same day.
Why does a 15-year mortgage take longer to break even?
On a shorter loan the same rate cut saves less each month, because more of each payment is principal and less is interest. Two points on the $400,000 example save $112.74 a month over 15 years against $135.65 over 30, so the $8,000 takes 70.96 months to earn back instead of 58.98, about a year longer.
What is the difference between discount points and origination points?
Discount points buy a lower interest rate. Origination charges, sometimes also quoted as points, pay the lender for making the loan and lower nothing. Both appear in the Origination Charges section of the Loan Estimate, so check that any points you are quoted come with a rate reduction before entering them. This calculation assumes every point entered buys the reduction you specify.
Can I roll the cost of the points into the loan?
Where the lender allows it, but then you pay interest on the points. If the $8,000 is added to the example loan, the 7.0 percent payment on $408,000 is $2,714.43, still $82.42 below the no-points payment, but the balance after ten years is $2,934.57 higher than on the no-points loan. The calculator assumes cash at closing, so compare financed points by running the two balances separately.
Does the loan amount change the break-even?
No. The cost of the points and the monthly saving are both proportional to the amount borrowed, so their ratio stays put. Two points at 0.25 each on a $200,000 loan cost $4,000 and save $67.82 a month, which is the same 58.98-month break-even as the $400,000 example. The dollar savings change; the timing does not.
Are points worth buying on an adjustable-rate mortgage?
Harder to judge, and outside what this calculation does. It assumes the reduced rate lasts for as long as you keep the loan, which is true of a fixed-rate mortgage. On an adjustable loan, ask the lender exactly which part of the rate the points lower and whether the reduction survives the first reset; if it ends then, count only the months before it.
Is a 2-1 buydown the same as buying points?
No. A temporary buydown lowers the payment for the first year or two only, paid for by money set aside at closing, and then the loan returns to its note rate. Discount points lower the note rate itself for the whole term. A temporary buydown has no lasting monthly saving, so a break-even calculation like this one does not apply to it.
What about lender credits instead of points?
A lender credit is the reverse trade: you accept a higher rate and the lender pays part of your closing costs. It suits borrowers who expect to sell or refinance within a few years. The points field does not take negative values, but you can test a credit by entering the credit offer's rate as the base rate, the size of the credit as points, and the rate gap per point as the reduction; the break-even then shows how long you must keep the loan for turning the credit down to pay off.

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Quanta Calculator
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Method
t = C ⁄ ( M₀ − M₁ )
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