Audited 27 Jul 2026·Last updated 28 Oct 2026·4 citations·Tier 2·0 uses

Heat Loss Calculator

Conductive heat loss through one wall, roof, floor or window from its area, R-value and indoor and outdoor design temperatures, in BTU per hour and watts.

Heat Loss Calculator

The wall, roof, floor, or window area you are analyzing.
Thermal resistance of the assembly. Common reference values: R-13 wall cavity, R-19 floor, R-30 or R-49 attic.
Typically a winter design low for heat-loss planning. A value warmer than the indoor temperature flips the result to heat gain.
Heat loss (BTU/hr)
769.2308
Steady conductive heat flow through the assembly in BTU per hour at the design temperatures; a negative value means heat gain.
Design temperature difference (°F)
50
U-value (1/R)
0.0769
Heat loss (watts)
225.4393

Background.

An insulation label that says R-13 tells you how well a wall resists heat. It does not tell you how much heat leaves through it, and that rate is what sizes a furnace, compares one insulation upgrade with another, or explains why one room is always cold. The rate depends on three things: the size of the surface, how strongly it resists heat flow, and how much colder it is outside than in. Multiply the area by the temperature difference, divide by the R-value, and you have the heat flow in BTU per hour.

Written as Q = U × A × ΔT, with U = 1/R, this is the conduction equation of the ASHRAE Handbook — Fundamentals and of the Department of Energy's building-science course notes. Every term acts in proportion. Double the area or the temperature difference and the loss doubles; double the R-value and it halves. That last rule has a practical edge. Taking a surface from R-1 to R-2 halves its loss, and so does taking an attic from R-30 to R-60, but per square foot the first upgrade saves thirty times as many BTUs as the second.

Each run covers one assembly: a stretch of wall, a roof, a floor, a window or a door. A house is the sum of its assemblies plus the warm air that leaks out through gaps and is replaced by cold air, which a conduction figure does not include. The outdoor temperature to use is a design temperature, the cold night the heating must cope with, not a seasonal average; for houses that is normally the 99% heating design temperature from ASHRAE's climate tables for the nearest weather station. Enter an outdoor temperature above the indoor one and the result turns negative, meaning heat is flowing in rather than out.

What is heat loss calculator?

Heat loss here is the steady rate at which heat conducts through one building assembly when the air on each side is held at a fixed temperature, measured in BTU per hour or watts. In US units R-value is in ft²·°F·h/BTU, which reads naturally: an R-13 wall needs 13 °F of temperature difference to push one BTU per hour through each square foot. U-value is the reciprocal, the BTU per hour that flow through a square foot for each degree of difference. The R-value that belongs in the calculation is the whole assembly's: every layer from drywall to siding, plus the thin films of still air on each face, added together, and reduced where framing bridges the insulation. Because the result is a rate, it describes one moment at design conditions, not a season's fuel use.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Measure one assembly in square feet. For a wall, take length times height and subtract the windows and doors, which get their own runs.
  2. Enter the R-value of the whole assembly. The R-13 in the field's hint is the rating of batts in a 2×4 stud cavity; studs lower the effective figure and sheathing, drywall and air films raise it, so use an assembly table where you can.
  3. Enter the indoor design temperature; 70 °F is the usual figure for heating.
  4. Enter the outdoor design temperature for your location, typically the 99% heating dry-bulb from ASHRAE climate data, not the average January temperature.
  5. Read the heat loss in BTU per hour and watts, then repeat for each assembly and add the results for the room or house.

The formula.

Q = U×A×ΔT = (A⁄R)×(Ti−To)

The temperature difference comes first: ΔT = indoor temperature − outdoor temperature, in °F. The R-value is inverted to give U = 1/R, in BTU per hour per square foot per °F. Heat loss is then Q = U × A × ΔT in BTU per hour, and dividing by 3.412142, the number of BTU per hour in a watt from the NIST SP 811 conversion tables, gives the same rate in watts. The product U × A, often written UA, is the assembly's loss per degree of temperature difference and is the handiest number to carry around. Two combining rules follow from the physics. Layers stacked in series, such as drywall, insulation and sheathing, add their R-values. Areas side by side, such as a wall and the window in it, add their UA values; averaging R-values by area understates the loss whenever the areas differ much in quality. The equation assumes steady conditions. It ignores the heat stored in heavy materials, sunshine on the surface, air leakage and the effect of wind beyond what the outside air film already allows for, which is why it is a design-day conduction figure and not a prediction of what a thermostat will see.

A worked example.

Example

Take a 200 sq ft exterior wall rated R-13, with 70 °F inside and an outdoor design temperature of 20 °F. The temperature difference is 70 − 20 = 50 °F. The U-value is 1 ÷ 13 = 0.0769 BTU/hr·ft²·°F. Heat loss is U × A × ΔT, which is simplest to do as 200 × 50 ÷ 13 = 769.2308 BTU per hour. Dividing by 3.412142 gives 225.4393 W. The wall's UA is 200 ÷ 13 = 15.38 BTU per hour for every degree of difference, and that is the figure to keep. On a 0 °F night the same wall would lose 70 × 15.38, about 1,076.92 BTU per hour, and for a whole-season estimate the UA goes straight into the degree-day method described below.

area Sq Ft200
indoor Temp F70
outdoor Temp F20
r Value13

Frequently asked questions.

How do I account for a window in the wall I am measuring?
Run it separately and add the results. A 200 sq ft wall with a 20 sq ft single-glazed window at roughly R-1 loses 692.31 BTU/hr through the 180 sq ft of R-13 wall and 1,000 through the glass at a 50 °F difference, 1,692.31 in total. Averaging the R-values by area would give R-11.8 and only 847.46 BTU/hr, half the true figure.
My insulation is rated in metric RSI. How do I convert it?
Multiply an RSI value in m²·K/W by 5.678 to get the US R-value; RSI 2.29 is about R-13. A metric U-value in W/m²·K converts the other way, dividing by 5.678. Areas in square metres multiply by 10.764 to give square feet, and temperatures need converting to °F before entry.
Can I turn BTU per hour into a yearly heating figure?
Yes, with heating degree days, which add up how far each day's mean temperature falls below a base, usually 65 °F. Annual heat loss is roughly UA × 24 × degree days. The example wall's UA of 15.38 in a 5,000 degree-day climate gives about 1,846,154 BTU a year, before allowing for furnace efficiency and fuel price.
What does a negative result tell me about summer heat gain?
It means outdoor air is warmer than indoor, so heat flows in. For walls and roofs in sunshine the air-temperature difference understates the gain, because a dark roof can run far hotter than the air around it, so cooling-load methods use adjusted temperature differences. For shaded surfaces and windows the simple figure is reasonable.
Should basement walls and floors use the outdoor design temperature?
Usually not. A floor over a crawlspace or a basement wall below grade faces soil or enclosed air that stays well above the winter design low, so using outdoor air temperature overstates their loss. Enter the temperature of the space or ground on the other side instead; slab-on-grade floors are normally handled by a separate perimeter method.
Why does adding attic insulation save less each time I add more?
Because loss falls as 1/R, each added layer removes a smaller slice. On 1,000 sq ft of attic at a 50 °F difference, R-11 loses about 4,545 BTU/hr, R-30 about 1,667 and R-49 about 1,020. The first upgrade saves around 2,879 BTU/hr; the second saves around 646, though in a cold climate that can still be worth having.

How this page was produced

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Quanta Calculator
Primary sources
4 cited below
Method
Q = U×A×ΔT = (A⁄R)×(Ti−To)
Published
Last verified

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