Audited 27 Jul 2026·Last updated 28 Oct 2026·5 citations·Tier 1·0 uses

Water Heater Size Calculator

Size a water heater from your busiest hour: peak-hour gallons for a tank's first-hour rating, or simultaneous flow and temperature rise for a tankless unit.

Water Heater Size Calculator

Peak hour demand
51
Gallons of hot water used in the busiest hour: each activity's gallons per use times its uses, added up.
Required first-hour rating
51
Simultaneous tankless flow (gpm)
4
Required temperature rise (F)
70
Candidate heater check
Storage: the 65 gal first-hour rating covers the 51 gal peak-hour demand. Tankless: 5 gpm meets the 4 gpm simultaneous flow at a 70 F rise. Use the flow the manufacturer quotes at this temperature rise.

Background.

Running out of hot water halfway through the second shower is a sizing problem, but rarely the one people think. The number on the side of the tank, 40 or 50 gallons, is not what decides it. What matters is how much hot water the heater can deliver in your busiest hour, and that depends on how fast it reheats as well as on how much it stores. The US Department of Energy's advice is to size a storage heater by its first-hour rating, the gallons it can supply in an hour starting from a full tank, and to compare that with the household's peak-hour demand.

Adding up that demand is straightforward. A morning with one shower at 20 gallons, 10 gallons through the kitchen faucet, a 6-gallon dishwasher cycle and a 15-gallon load of laundry comes to 51 gallons, so any tank with a first-hour rating of at least 51 gallons should keep up. A second 20-gallon shower in the same hour raises the requirement to 71, and the heater that coped before no longer does.

Tankless heaters store nothing, so they are sized the other way round: by how many gallons per minute must flow at once and how many degrees each gallon has to be heated. A 2-gallon-per-minute shower, a 1-gallon faucet and a 1-gallon dishwasher running together need 4 gallons a minute. Raising that from 50 °F groundwater to 120 °F is a 70-degree rise, about 140,000 BTU an hour of heat, which is why tankless models are rated by flow at a stated temperature rise and why the same unit delivers less in winter, when the water entering the house is colder.

What is water heater size calculator?

Water heater sizing matches what the heater can deliver to what the household draws at its busiest. For a storage tank, including heat pump models, the measure is the first-hour rating: the number of gallons of hot water the heater can supply in one hour starting with a full tank. It combines stored volume with recovery, the rate at which the burner, element or heat pump reheats incoming water, so a gas tank with a powerful burner can have a first-hour rating well above its tank volume, while a slow-recovering unit can fall below it. The rating appears on the EnergyGuide label and in the product specifications. Peak-hour demand is the matching figure for the house: the hot water used in the single busiest hour, not over the whole day. For a tankless or demand heater the measures are flow and temperature rise. Flow is the gallons per minute drawn by every hot tap and appliance that might run at the same moment; temperature rise is the difference between the hot water temperature you want and the temperature of the water coming in. Manufacturers publish the flow each model can sustain at various rises.

How to use this calculator.

  1. For the busiest hour of a typical day, enter the hot gallons each activity uses and how many times it happens. A shower uses its flow rate times its length, so a 10-minute shower at 2 gallons a minute is 20 gallons. To leave an activity out, set its number of uses to 0; the gallons per use must stay above zero.
  2. Enter the first-hour rating of a storage heater you are considering, from its EnergyGuide label or spec sheet. If you have no candidate in mind, set it to 0 to skip the storage check and read only the required rating.
  3. For tankless sizing, enter the flow rates of the shower, faucet and dishwasher that could run at the same time. The showerhead's rating is usually stamped on it or in its manual. All three need a value above zero.
  4. Enter the hot water temperature you want, usually 120 °F, and the temperature of the incoming cold water in the coldest month, which you can measure with a thermometer at a cold tap after letting it run.
  5. Enter the flow a tankless candidate is rated for at your temperature rise, from the manufacturer's table. Leaving it at 0 skips the tankless check.

The formula.

D = Σ (gᵢ × nᵢ)

Peak-hour demand is D = Σ (gᵢ × nᵢ): for each activity i, the hot gallons per use gᵢ times the number of uses nᵢ in the busiest hour, added up. The required first-hour rating is set equal to D, and the storage check passes when the candidate's first-hour rating is at least D. There is no safety margin built in, so a rating that only just covers the demand will run short on a morning when someone showers longer than usual.

The tankless side has two parts. Simultaneous flow F is the sum of the shower, faucet and dishwasher flow rates, in gallons per minute; the clothes washer is not included, and all three of the others always are. If you know your dishwasher never runs while someone showers, take its flow off the total when you read the result. The temperature rise is ΔT = desired temperature − incoming temperature, in °F. A tankless candidate passes when its flow at that rise is at least F. The calculator does not convert a heater's power rating into flow, which is why it asks for the flow the manufacturer quotes at your rise.

The physics behind those manufacturer tables is simple. A gallon of water weighs about 8.33 pounds and takes 1 BTU per pound to warm by 1 °F, so heating a flow of F gallons per minute by ΔT degrees takes about 500 × F × ΔT BTU per hour. At 4 gpm and a 70-degree rise that is 140,000 BTU an hour, about 41 kW. Halve the rise and the same heater can deliver roughly twice the flow, which is why the incoming water temperature matters as much as the showers and taps.

A worked example.

Example

In the busiest hour, the household takes one 20-gallon shower, uses 10 gallons at the kitchen faucet, runs a 6-gallon dishwasher cycle and a 15-gallon washing machine load: 20 + 10 + 6 + 15 = 51 gallons of peak-hour demand. The required first-hour rating is therefore 51 gallons, and the candidate tank, rated at 65 gallons for the first hour, covers it with 14 gallons to spare. For a tankless heater, the shower at 2 gpm, the faucet at 1 gpm and the dishwasher at 1 gpm add up to 4 gpm. The water is wanted at 120 °F and arrives at 50 °F, so the rise is 120 − 50 = 70 °F. A candidate that the manufacturer rates at 5 gpm for a 70-degree rise meets the 4 gpm demand. Heating 4 gpm by 70 degrees takes about 500 × 4 × 70 = 140,000 BTU an hour. If a second 20-gallon shower is added to the same hour, demand becomes 71 gallons; a heater with a first-hour rating of 45 gallons would then fall short by 26.

shower Flow Gpm2
clothes Washer Uses1
desired Hot Water Temp F120
dishwasher Flow Gpm1
faucet Uses1
dishwasher Uses1
shower Uses1
shower Gallons20
candidate First Hour Rating Gal65
faucet Flow Gpm1
dishwasher Gallons6
faucet Gallons10
incoming Water Temp F50
clothes Washer Gallons15

Frequently asked questions.

What is a first-hour rating, and where do I find it?
It is the number of gallons of hot water a storage heater can deliver in one hour, starting with a full tank. Because it includes recovery as well as stored volume, it is the figure to compare with your peak-hour demand. It is printed on the yellow EnergyGuide label and in the manufacturer's specifications. Two 50-gallon tanks can have quite different first-hour ratings if one heats much faster than the other.
How many gallons of hot water does a shower use?
Flow rate times minutes. New showerheads sold in the US are limited to 2.5 gallons per minute, and many use 2.0 or less, so a 10-minute shower uses 20 to 25 gallons of water. Not all of that is hot: mixed to around 105 °F from 120 °F hot and 50 °F cold, about 79 percent comes from the heater, roughly 15.7 gallons of a 20-gallon shower. Entering the full 20 gallons builds in a modest margin.
Why does the temperature of the incoming water matter?
Because it sets how much heat each gallon needs. Groundwater and municipal supplies are colder in winter and in northern climates, and the heater has to make up the difference. At 50 °F incoming water, 120 °F output is a 70-degree rise; at 40 °F it is 80 degrees, and the same 4 gpm then needs about 160,000 BTU an hour instead of 140,000. Size a tankless heater for the coldest month.
What size tankless heater do I need for two showers at once?
Add up everything that might draw hot water at the same time. Two 2-gpm showers make 4 gpm; with a 1-gpm kitchen faucet it is 5 gpm. Then look in the manufacturer's performance table for the flow each model sustains at your temperature rise, not the headline maximum flow, which is often quoted for a smaller rise. At a 70-degree rise, 5 gpm takes about 175,000 BTU an hour.
Can an electric tankless heater supply a whole house?
Sometimes, but the electrical load is large. Heating 4 gpm by 70 degrees needs about 41 kW, which at 240 volts is roughly 171 amps, more than many homes' service can spare. Each kilowatt of electric heating warms only about 0.1 gpm through a 70-degree rise, so an 18 kW unit delivers about 1.75 gpm. Electric units suit warm climates and point-of-use jobs; check the panel before choosing one for a whole house.
What temperature should I set my water heater to?
The Department of Energy suggests 120 °F for most households, which saves energy and reduces the risk of scalding compared with the 140 °F some manufacturers set at the factory. If you need hotter water, for example for a dishwasher without its own heater, check the appliance manual, and consider a thermostatic mixing valve so that the water reaching taps and showers is held at a safe temperature.
Is a heat pump water heater sized the same way?
Yes: compare its first-hour rating with your peak-hour demand. The difference is recovery. Running on the heat pump alone, these heaters reheat slowly, and many have a backup electric element or a high-demand mode for busy mornings. If you plan to run yours on an economy, heat-pump-only setting, allow a generous margin over your peak-hour demand rather than buying to the gallon.
Doesn't the number of people in the house decide the tank size?
Only roughly. Two people who shower back to back and run laundry before work can have a higher peak hour than a family of five whose showers are spread between morning and evening. Size from the busiest hour you actually have, and if that hour is unusual, it can be cheaper to move the laundry or the dishwasher to another time than to buy a larger heater.
Why can't I enter zero gallons or zero flow for something I don't have?
The calculator expects every listed activity and outlet to have a real size. To leave an activity out of the peak hour, set its number of uses to 0 instead; the gallons per use then no longer count. The three tankless flow rates are always added together, so if your dishwasher will never run during a shower, subtract its flow from the simultaneous total when you compare heaters.
Will a bigger tank stop us running out of hot water?
Not necessarily; a higher first-hour rating is what helps, and that can come from faster recovery as well as volume. Another option is to store water hotter and fit a thermostatic mixing valve at the outlet. With 50 °F incoming water, each gallon stored at 140 °F blends into about 1.29 gallons at 120 °F, so the same tank goes further, while the valve keeps scalding water away from the taps. Staggering laundry and showers costs nothing.

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Method
D = Σ (gᵢ × nᵢ)
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