Audited ·Last updated 31 Jul 2026·4 citations·Tier 2·0 uses

Curtain Size Calculator

Size curtain panels from rod width and fullness, then get the cut length and yardage — built on the Singer drapery method and its own published example.

Curtain Size Calculator

How will the curtain be made?
Only used when the construction above is set to Custom. This is the TOTAL added to the finished drop for the heading, the top hem and the bottom hem together.
in
Singer: measure "from edge to edge of window frame or from outer edges of fixture brackets". Measure the installed rod, not the window — and mount the rod first, because the rod width is what the curtain has to cover.
in
Singer: "add the 'return' at either end; that is, the length from curve of rod to the wall". It is added at BOTH ends. Enter 0 for a rod with no return.
in
Singer gives three figures: about 2× is the average for draperies, 2–2½× for medium-weight over-draperies, and "2½ or 3 times the width" as a general allowance. For sheers Singer gives no number at all — only "full enough to hang in easy, graceful folds" — so no ratio is assumed for you here.
×
How many finished panels the total width is divided between. Two is the usual pair that meets in the middle; one is a single panel drawn to one side.
Singer: "Measure from the top of the rod down — to the sill — to the lower edge of apron — or to the floor." Those are the three lengths the manual calls correct. Measure at both ends and the middle: floors are rarely level.
in
Signed. Negative shortens the drop so the curtain clears the floor; positive lengthens it to puddle. Singer says full-length draperies "should just clear the floor or be long enough to crush on the floor" but gives no inch figure, so this is your preference, not a specification.
in
Singer's list: 36" for chintz and polished cottons, 40", 48", 54" or 60", "but the average is about 48" wide". Modern drapery goods are commonly 54". ASTM D3774 measures fabric width including the selvages, so if your selvage is unusable, enter the usable width instead.
in
Enter 0 for a plain fabric. With a repeat, each cut is raised UP to the next whole repeat so the pattern matches across panels — this is a ceiling, never a rounding, because a cut that lands short cannot be undone.
in
Finished width per panel
88.75
How wide each finished panel should be: total fabric width divided by the number of panels. This is the number to compare against a ready-made panel's stated width before you buy.
Total finished curtain width
177.5 in
Width to cover
71 in
Finished drop
83.5 in
Heading + hem allowance
8.5 in
Cut length per width
92 in
Fabric widths to cut
4
Widths per panel
2
Fullness you actually get
3.0423×
Fabric to buy
10.2222 yd
How full will it look?
Very full — 3x or more, Singer's upper figure. Deep folds, and the most fabric.
In one line
88.8 in wide per panel x 83.5 in finished drop, from 4 widths of 54 in fabric cut 92 in long — 10.22 yd in total before the shop rounds up.

Background.

A curtain size calculator answers three questions from one set of measurements: how wide each panel should be, how long the fabric has to be cut, and how many yards to buy. The width question is the one people get wrong, because a curtain that measures the same as its rod does not hang — it stretches flat across the window with no folds at all. Curtains need surplus width, called fullness, and fullness is a multiplier on the width being covered rather than a fixed number of inches.

Every constant on this page comes from one primary document: The Singer Company's trade manual How to Make Draperies, Book No. 102, published in 1960 and now open in full text at Project Gutenberg. Singer states fullness three separate ways, and the page prints all three rather than picking one for you: "The fullness of draperies averages about twice the width of the space to be covered"; "Over-curtains or draperies of medium weight fabrics require a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the width"; and "An allowance of 2½ or 3 times the width should be made for fullness." For sheer fabrics Singer gives no number at all — only "full enough to hang in easy, graceful folds" — so this calculator does not invent one. Fullness is an input with a 2.5 default, not a hidden constant.

The same manual supplies what to measure. For width: "Measure from edge to edge of window frame or from outer edges of fixture brackets. To this measurement add the 'return' at either end; that is, the length from curve of rod to the wall." The return is added at both ends, which is why a 64-inch rod with a 3.5-inch return needs 71 inches of coverage, not 64. For length: "Measure from the top of the rod down — to the sill — to the lower edge of apron — or to the floor." Those three are the lengths Singer calls correct, and full-length draperies "should just clear the floor or be long enough to crush on the floor" — a preference with no inch figure attached, so the floor clearance is a signed input you set yourself.

The construction dropdown is where the page is most useful and most honest. Singer's per-construction allowances are exact and quoted in the option labels — 8.5 inches for a lined drapery with a single bottom hem, 11 with a double hem, 9 unlined, 7 interlined, 5 with ready-made pleater tape. A modern custom workroom uses roughly 18 inches, because it doubles both the header and the bottom hem where Singer used a single 4-inch top hem over a buckram strip. Those two authorities disagree by about nine and a half inches on the same curtain. Rather than average them into a number belonging to nobody, both ship as selectable modes and the page names which is which.

Three limits sit beside the result, not behind an accordion. First, every figure is an estimate from measurements you took, so measure the installed rod and check the drop at three points along the window, because floors are rarely level. Second, the nominal fabric width printed on a bolt includes the selvages — ASTM D3774 measures it that way — so if your selvage is unusable, enter the usable width instead. Third, wash the fabric before you cut. Curtain fabric shrinks; AATCC TM135 exists because dimensional change after home laundering is real, fabric-specific and unpredictable, and a hemmed full-length curtain that shrinks two percent is nearly two inches short with no way back.

What is curtain size calculator?

Curtain size is two independent dimensions and one multiplier. The width dimension is the rod or track width plus the return at each end — the distance the rod bends back to the wall — and that cover width is then multiplied by a fullness ratio to get the total width of finished curtain needed. Divide by the number of panels and you have the finished width each panel must be. Fullness is what turns flat cloth into folds: at 1× a panel is a taut sheet, and Singer puts the average drapery at about twice the width of the space covered, rising to 2½ or 3 times for a fuller look.

The length dimension is measured from the top of the rod down to whichever of Singer's three correct end points you want — the sill, the lower edge of the window apron, or the floor — adjusted by however much you want the curtain to clear or puddle. That finished drop is not the cut length. The cut length adds the heading, the top hem and the bottom hem, and if the fabric carries a vertical pattern repeat the cut is raised up to the next whole repeat so the pattern lines up across every panel.

Yardage then follows from both dimensions together. Fabric is sold in fixed widths, so the total finished curtain width is divided by the fabric width and rounded UP to whole widths — you cannot buy two-thirds of a width for a full-height drop. Multiply those whole widths by the cut length, divide by 36, and you have yards. Because of that rounding up, the fullness you actually achieve is normally higher than the ratio you asked for, and this page reports it separately.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Mount the rod first, then measure it from bracket to bracket. The rod width, not the window width, is what the curtain has to cover.
  2. Measure the return — the distance the rod curves back to the wall — and enter it once. The calculator adds it at both ends.
  3. Choose a fullness ratio. Singer's figures: about 2× is the average, 2–2½× for medium-weight over-draperies, 2½–3× for a fuller look. Sheers have no sourced figure; use your own judgement and say so.
  4. Measure from the top of the rod down to the sill, the lower edge of the apron, or the floor — Singer's three correct lengths. Measure at both ends and the middle and use the shortest.
  5. Set the floor clearance: negative to clear the floor, positive to puddle. Zero means the hem lands exactly on your measurement.
  6. Pick the construction that matches how you will actually sew it. The allowance shown is the total added for the heading and both hems.
  7. Enter the fabric width — the usable width, not the printed width, if the selvage has to go — and the vertical pattern repeat, or 0 for a plain fabric.
  8. Read the finished width per panel as your headline answer, then check the achieved fullness: if it came out higher than you asked for, that is the rounding up to whole fabric widths, and it is a good thing.
  9. Round the yardage up to your shop's cutting increment, and wash the fabric before you cut a single length.

The formula.

W = (R + 2r) × F ⁄ n · L = ⌈(D + a) ⁄ p⌉ × p · Y = ⌈(R + 2r)F ⁄ w⌉ × L ⁄ 36

Width first. The cover width is the rod width plus the return at each end: R + 2r. Singer is explicit that the return is added at either end, so a 64-inch rod with a 3.5-inch return covers 71 inches. Multiply the cover width by the fullness ratio F to get the total finished curtain width, then divide by the number of panels n for the width each panel must finish at.

Length second. The finished drop D is your rod-to-end-point measurement plus the signed floor adjustment — negative to clear the floor, positive to puddle. Add the construction allowance a, and if the fabric has a vertical repeat p, raise the result up to the next whole multiple of p. That step is a ceiling and never a rounding: cutting a length that lands short of the next repeat makes the pattern impossible to match, and unlike buying too much it cannot be undone.

Yardage last. Divide the total finished width by the fabric width w and round UP to whole widths, because a full-height drop uses the full width of the bolt. Multiply those widths by the cut length and divide by 36 for yards. Rounding happens at exactly two places, both of them ceilings on quantities that are physically integral — whole fabric widths, and whole pattern repeats. Everything else is carried at full precision and rounded once at the end.

That rounding up to whole widths has a consequence worth reading: the fullness you actually get is (widths × fabric width) ÷ cover width, which is normally more than the ratio you asked for. Singer's own published example is the clean case. A 64-inch window at 3 to 1 fullness needs 192 inches of finished curtain; at 48-inch fabric that is exactly 4 widths, so 4 × 48 ÷ 64 gives an achieved fullness of exactly 3.0 with nothing wasted. Change the fabric to 54 inches and the same window needs ceil(192 ÷ 54) = 4 widths again, but now 4 × 54 ÷ 64 = 3.375× — a third more fabric than the ratio asked for, and a fuller curtain than planned. This is why the achieved figure is shown separately, and why the verdict beside it is computed from the full-precision achieved value rather than from the number displayed.

A worked example.

Example

This is Singer's own worked example from How to Make Draperies, reproduced exactly, which is why it doubles as a check on the arithmetic. The manual states: "The window is 64" wide which requires 4 widths of 48" wide fabric for a 3 to 1 fullness. The drapery lengths are 2⅓ yards long. If a plain fabric or overall design is used, the fabric required would be 9⅓ yards, but if the fabric has a 24" repeat pattern, you must allow 1⅓ yards more, or a total of 10⅔ yards for matching the design." With no return, the cover width is the 64 in rod itself. At 3× fullness that is 192 in of finished curtain, so across a pair of panels each one finishes at 96 in wide — the headline answer. Against 48 in fabric, 192 ÷ 48 is exactly 4 widths, which is the figure Singer prints. The drapery length of 2⅓ yards is 84 in, and because this example carries no heading or hem allowance the cut length is 84 in too. Four widths at 84 in is 336 in, and 336 ÷ 36 gives 9.3333 yd — Singer's 9⅓ yards. Switch on a 24 in pattern repeat and the cut length is raised to the next whole repeat: 84 ÷ 24 is 3.5, so it becomes 4 repeats, or 96 in. Four widths at 96 in is 384 in, which is 10.6667 yd — Singer's 10⅔ yards — and the difference from the plain-fabric case is 1.3333 yd, exactly the 1⅓ yards more the manual says to allow. Achieved fullness lands on 3.0 (4 × 48 ÷ 64) with nothing wasted, which puts the verdict in the top band at Singer's upper figure.

fullness Ratio3
floor Adjust In0
custom Allowance In0
fabric Width In48
rod Width In64
pattern Repeat In0
return Per Side In0
construction Stylecustom
panel Count2
rod To End Point In84

Frequently asked questions.

How wide should curtains be compared to the window?
Wider than the rod, by a multiplier rather than a fixed margin. Singer's 1960 drapery manual states it three ways: "The fullness of draperies averages about twice the width of the space to be covered"; "Over-curtains or draperies of medium weight fabrics require a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the width"; and "An allowance of 2½ or 3 times the width should be made for fullness." So for a 64-inch rod, plan on roughly 128 inches of finished curtain at the low end and up to 192 inches at 3×, split between however many panels you hang. Note that the multiplier applies to the rod width plus the return at each end, not to the window opening.
Why is the fullness I actually get higher than the ratio I entered?
Because fabric is sold in fixed widths and a full-height curtain uses the whole width of the bolt, so the requirement is rounded up to whole widths. If you ask for 2.5× on a 64-inch rod you need 160 inches of finished width; at 54-inch fabric that is 2.96 widths, which becomes 3, and three 54-inch widths on a 64-inch rod is an achieved fullness of 2.53×. On wider fabric the effect is larger: 4 widths of 54 inches on a 64-inch rod is 3.375×. The page reports the achieved figure separately and bases its verdict on that, because the achieved figure is what the finished curtain actually looks like.
How much extra length do I add for the heading and hems?
It depends entirely on the construction, and the two authorities on this page disagree by about nine and a half inches. Singer 1960 gives exact per-construction figures: lined draperies "add 1" for heading, 4" for hem and 3½" for bottom hem" — 8.5 inches total; a double bottom hem substitutes 6 inches for the 3½, giving 11; unlined is 1 + 4½ + 3½ = 9; interlined is 1 + 3 + 3 = 7; ready-made pleater tape is 1½ + 3½ = 5. A modern custom workroom typically allows about 18 inches, because it doubles both the header and the bottom hem where Singer used a single 4-inch top hem supported by a buckram strip. Both figures are selectable here and the page labels which is which rather than blending them into a number that belongs to neither.
What length should curtains be — sill, apron or floor?
Singer names three and only three: "There are three correct lengths for draperies — to the sill — to the lower edge of the apron — or to the floor. Full length draperies should just clear the floor or be long enough to crush on the floor." Floor length is the most generally used. Notice that the manual gives no inch figure for "just clear" or "crush", and neither does this page — the floor clearance is a signed input you set, negative to clear and positive to puddle. Whichever you choose, measure from the top of the rod down to that end point, and measure at both ends of the window and the middle: a floor out of level by half an inch is visible on a full-length curtain and invisible on a sill-length one.
Do I need to allow extra fabric for a patterned curtain?
Yes, and the allowance is per cut, not a flat percentage. Each length has to start at the same point in the pattern or the motifs will not line up across the panels, so every cut is raised up to the next whole vertical repeat. Singer's own example makes the size of the effect clear: an 84-inch cut against a 24-inch repeat becomes 96 inches, and across four widths that turns 9⅓ yards into 10⅔ yards — 1⅓ yards more for the same curtain. Large repeats on long drops are where curtain projects run over budget. Note this is always a round UP: a cut that lands short of the next repeat cannot be matched, and unlike surplus fabric the error is not recoverable.
Should I wash the fabric before I cut it?
Yes, if the finished curtain will ever be washed. Woven fabrics change dimension after laundering, which is exactly why AATCC TM135 exists as a standard test method for dimensional change of fabrics after home laundering — the amount is fabric-specific and cannot be predicted from the fibre content alone. On a 90-inch drop, a two percent shrink is 1.8 inches, and a hemmed full-length curtain that comes up 1.8 inches short cannot be lengthened. Pre-wash and dry the fabric the way you intend to launder the finished curtain, then measure the fabric again and use that width in the calculator.
Is the fabric width printed on the bolt the width I can actually use?
Not always. ASTM D3774, the standard test method for the width of textile fabric, measures roll and bolt width including the selvages unless otherwise specified. The selvage is the woven edge, and on drapery goods it is often denser, differently tensioned, or printed with the manufacturer's registration marks — none of which you want in a finished panel or a seam. If you will trim it, subtract it and enter the usable width here. Getting this wrong by an inch on a narrow window is what turns three fabric widths into four.
How many curtain panels do I need for one window?
That is a decision, not a calculation, and the page treats it as an input. A pair meeting in the middle is the usual choice for a window you want to open from both sides; a single panel drawn to one side suits a narrow window or a door. What the number changes is only how the total finished width is divided: at 192 inches of total width, two panels finish at 96 inches each and four panels at 48 inches each. Watch the widths-per-panel output: a fractional figure such as 1.5 means each panel is one and a half fabric widths seamed together, which Singer treats as ordinary practice rather than a problem.

References& sources.

  1. [1]The Singer Company, How to Make Draperies, Book No. 102 (1960) — Project Gutenberg ebook 63282. PRIMARY SOURCE for every constant on this page: the fullness figures ("2 to 2½ times the width", "2½ or 3 times the width", "averages about twice the width"), the three correct lengths (sill, lower edge of the apron, floor), the return being added at either end, the per-construction heading and hem allowances (lined 1+4+3½; double hem 6 instead of 3½; unlined 1+4½+3½; interlined 1+3+3; pleater tape 1½+3½), the fabric-width list, and the worked example (64" window, 4 widths of 48" fabric at 3:1, 9⅓ yd plain and 10⅔ yd with a 24" repeat) that this page reproduces exactly. Retrieved and every quotation confirmed 2026-07-30.
  2. [2]ASTM International, ASTM D3774-18, Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric — scope and Option A (full roll or bolt): "Unless otherwise specified, measurements shall include the selvages when present." Cited for the scope limit that a bolt's nominal width includes selvage, so usable width is less; not for any computed value. PAYWALLED full standard; scope and title read on the publisher's own store page, 2026-07-30.
  3. [3]AATCC, TM135, Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering (current edition TM135-2025) — four wash temperatures, three agitation cycles and four drying procedures for measuring length and width change. Cited for the pre-wash caveat only. PAYWALLED full method; scope read on AATCC's own store listing, 2026-07-30.
  4. [4]Cooperative Extension Service, University of Hawaiʻi — Vera Y. Reid, Make Your Own Draperies, held in ScholarSpace, University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa. Cited as a corroborating extension-service treatment of the same measure-and-multiply drapery method. ARCHIVED SCAN: page images only, with no OCR text layer available to automated retrieval, so no figure on this page is attributed to it. Retrieval attempted 2026-07-30.

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