Audited ·Last updated 31 Jul 2026·4 citations·Tier 2·0 uses

Fabric Calculator

How many yards of fabric for a set of cut pieces — or how many pieces from the yardage you have. Handles bolt width, selvage, pattern repeat and shrinkage.

Fabric Calculator

Which way round is your question?
The width printed on the bolt. Quilting cotton is usually 44–45 in, apparel and drapery goods 54–60 in, quilt backing 108 in. Singer's 1960 list ran "36" … 40"—48"—even 54" or 60"", with 48 in as the average of the day.
in
ASTM D3774 measures bolt width INCLUDING the selvages, so the printed width is not the usable width. Measure your own selvage — often 0.5–1 in total across both edges, more on printed drapery goods carrying registration marks. Enter 0 if you can cut right to the edge.
in
The measurement that runs ACROSS the bolt, from selvage to selvage. Include seam allowance — enter the size you will cut, not the finished size. Rotating a piece 90° changes the answer, and on a directional print or a piece that must be on grain, rotating it is not an option.
in
The measurement that runs DOWN the bolt, along the lengthwise grain. Singer: draperies "must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric", and the same holds for anything that has to hang or drape straight.
in
How many identical pieces you need. In the cutting-from-stock direction this is the target the result is compared against, so you can see whether your yardage falls short.
Only used when you are asking how many pieces come out of fabric you own. Measure what you actually have rather than what the receipt says — a shop cut is rarely exact.
yd
Enter 0 for a plain or all-over fabric. With a repeat, every piece length is raised UP to the next whole repeat so the motifs match between pieces. Singer's example shows the cost: an 84 in cut against a 24 in repeat becomes 96 in, turning 9⅓ yards into 10⅔.
in
One labelled allowance covering pre-wash shrinkage and cutting error. This is NOT a sourced shrinkage figure for your cloth — AATCC TM135 exists precisely because dimensional change after home laundering is fabric-specific and has to be measured. Pre-wash, re-measure, then set this from what you saw.
%
Fabric to buy
3.3
Cutting length ÷ 36, with your allowance applied. This is the exact requirement with nothing hidden added: a shop cuts to the quarter or eighth of a yard, so round UP to its increment yourself.
Fabric to buy
3.0175 m
Usable width
43 in
Pieces across the width
2
Rows down the fabric
6
Pieces this layout yields
12
Spare (or shortfall)
0
Cut length per piece
18 in
Total cutting length
108 in
Cloth actually used
74.38
Does it work out?
Exact — every piece is cut and there is nothing spare. No margin for a cutting mistake, so check the allowance.
In one line
3.3 yd (3.02 m) of 44 in fabric: 2 pieces across x 6 rows, cut 108 in long, at 74.4% of the cloth actually used.

Background.

A fabric calculator turns a set of cut pieces into yardage, and the reason it is not simple division is that pieces do not tile a bolt. Fabric arrives in one fixed width and any length you like, so the layout problem is one-dimensional packing: as many whole pieces as will fit across the usable width, then as many rows down the length as you need. Whatever strip is left over across the width is waste on every single row, and that strip is where most fabric budgets quietly go.

The worked example on this page makes the effect concrete. Twelve 18-inch napkins from 44-inch quilting cotton sounds like a straightforward area sum — 12 × 18 × 18 is 3,888 square inches, and a yard of 44-inch fabric is 1,584 square inches, so about 2.5 yards. The real answer is 3.3 yards. Take one inch off for selvage and 43 inches of usable width fits two 18-inch pieces with 7 inches wasted, so the twelve napkins need six rows of 18 inches, which is 108 inches of cloth, and after a 10 percent allowance that is 3.3 yards. Only 74 percent of the fabric you buy ends up in a napkin. Move the same project to 60-inch fabric and three pieces fit across, four rows do the job, and the answer drops to 2.2 yards — a third less cloth for identical napkins.

The page runs the question in both directions. Ask how many yards you need for a given number of pieces, or ask how many pieces come out of the yardage already in your cupboard, and the second is a genuine inverse rather than a restatement: it tells you whether you are short and by how many pieces. One deliberate asymmetry between the two: when you are buying, the shrinkage and cutting allowance is added on top of the cloth the layout needs, and when you are cutting from stock it is reserved out of the cloth you have. Adding it in the second direction would invite you to cut into fabric you have already set aside for shrinkage.

Three limits belong beside the answer rather than behind an accordion. Grain is fixed: the piece width runs across the bolt and the piece length runs down it, and rotating a piece ninety degrees changes the result — an option you do not have on a directional print or a piece that must hang on grain. Nominal width is not usable width: ASTM D3774, the standard test method for the width of textile fabric, measures a bolt including its selvages, so the 44 inches on the label includes edge you will trim, and the selvage loss here is a measurement to take from your own cloth rather than a constant anybody publishes. And the layout is a plain grid of rectangles — no nesting of irregular pattern pieces, no interlocking rotation, no bias, no cutting across a fold. A skilled cutter can beat this figure; a cutter working to grain on a directional print usually cannot.

The method itself, and the pattern-repeat rule that goes with it, is not invented here. It is the widths-and-cut-lengths approach set out in The Singer Company's 1960 trade manual How to Make Draperies, and when the piece width is set equal to the fabric width this calculator reproduces that manual's own published figures exactly — 9⅓ yards for four 84-inch lengths of 48-inch fabric, and 10⅔ yards once a 24-inch pattern repeat raises each cut to 96 inches.

What is fabric calculator?

Fabric yardage is the length of cloth, at a fixed sold width, that a cutting layout occupies. Three quantities decide it. The first is the usable width — the bolt width less whatever selvage you trim — because that is what limits how many pieces sit side by side. The second is the number of whole pieces that fit across that usable width, always rounded down, since a partial piece is not a piece. The third is the number of rows of pieces you need down the length, which is the piece count divided by the pieces across and rounded up, because you buy the whole row whether you use all of it or not.

Multiply the rows by the length each piece needs and you have the cutting length in inches; divide by 36 for yards. Where the fabric carries a vertical pattern repeat, each piece's length is first raised up to the next whole repeat so that the motifs land in the same place on every piece — a step that can add a substantial amount on long pieces with a large repeat.

The inverse question is the same layout read backwards. Given the yardage you have, how many rows fit — rounded down this time — and therefore how many pieces? That direction is what tells you whether the remnant in your cupboard is enough before you cut into it, and by how many pieces you fall short if it is not.

How to use this calculator.

  1. Choose the direction: yards for a set of pieces, or pieces from the yardage you already own.
  2. Enter the fabric width printed on the bolt — 44–45 in for quilting cotton, 54–60 in for apparel and drapery goods, 108 in for quilt backing.
  3. Measure your selvage and enter the loss. ASTM D3774 measures bolt width including selvages, so the printed width overstates what you can cut from.
  4. Enter the piece width — the measurement that runs across the bolt — and the piece length, which runs down it. Include seam allowance: enter the size you will cut, not the finished size.
  5. Enter how many pieces you need. In the cutting-from-stock direction this becomes the target the result is checked against.
  6. Enter the vertical pattern repeat, or 0 for a plain fabric. Repeats on long pieces are where projects overrun.
  7. Set the shrinkage and cutting allowance. Pre-wash a sample, measure the change yourself, and use that — the 10 percent default is a starting point, not a figure for your cloth.
  8. Read the yardage, then read the efficiency figure below it. If it is well under 80 percent, look at the leftover strip across the width: a different bolt width or a slightly narrower piece often removes a whole row.
  9. Round the yardage up to whatever increment your shop cuts to, buy it, wash it, measure it again, and only then cut.

The formula.

u = W − s · a = ⌊u ⁄ w⌋ · ℓ = ⌈L ⁄ p⌉ × p · Y = ⌈n ⁄ a⌉ × ℓ ⁄ 36 × (1 + e)

Start with the usable width: the bolt width less the selvage you trim. Divide it by the piece width and round DOWN — that is the number of whole pieces that sit side by side across the fabric, and rounding down is not a simplification but the physical fact that two thirds of a napkin is not a napkin. On 43 inches of usable width an 18-inch piece fits twice, leaving a 7-inch strip that is wasted on every row.

Next, the cut length of one piece. If the fabric has no vertical repeat this is just the piece length. If it has a repeat, the length is raised UP to the next whole multiple of the repeat so that every piece starts at the same point in the pattern. That step is always a ceiling: a cut that lands short of the next repeat cannot be matched, and unlike buying too much fabric the mistake cannot be undone.

Then the rows. Buying, it is the piece count divided by the pieces across, rounded UP, because a row is bought whole. Multiply rows by cut length for the total cutting length, divide by 36 for yards, and apply your allowance. Cutting from stock, the direction reverses: the yardage on hand is converted to inches, the allowance is reserved out of it by dividing rather than added by multiplying, and the result is divided by the cut length and rounded DOWN — you cannot cut a row you do not have.

Working the published example: 44 in bolt less 1 in selvage is 43 in usable; ⌊43 ÷ 18⌋ = 2 pieces across; no repeat, so the cut length stays 18 in; ⌈12 ÷ 2⌉ = 6 rows; 6 × 18 = 108 in of cloth; 108 ÷ 36 = 3 yd, and × 1.10 for the allowance gives 3.3 yd, which is 3.01752 m at the exact factor 1 yd = 0.9144 m. Efficiency is the piece area over the fabric area bought: 12 × 18 × 18 = 3,888 sq in of napkins against 3.3 × 36 × 44 = 5,227.2 sq in of cloth, or 74.3801652893 percent.

Rounding happens at exactly three places, and each one is a quantity that is physically integral: pieces across (down), rows (up when buying, down when cutting), and the cut length against a pattern repeat (up). Everything else is carried at full precision to the end. The yardage is deliberately NOT rounded up to a saleable increment, because shops differ on whether they cut to the quarter or the eighth of a yard, and rounding here would both hide the real requirement and make the efficiency figure wrong.

A worked example.

Example

Twelve dinner napkins, cut 18 in square so they finish at about 16 in after a double hem, from 44 in quilting cotton with a 10 percent allowance for pre-washing and cutting error. Trimming 1 in of selvage leaves 43 in of usable width. Two 18 in pieces fit across that — ⌊43 ÷ 18⌋ = 2, since 2.39 pieces is 2 pieces — and the 7 in strip left over is wasted on every row. Twelve napkins at two per row is six rows, and with no pattern repeat each row is 18 in deep, so the layout occupies 108 in of cloth. That is 3 yd exactly, and the 10 percent allowance brings it to 3.3 yd, or 3.01752 m at the exact factor of 0.9144 m per yard. The layout yields exactly 12 pieces with none spare, which is worth noticing: there is no margin for a mis-cut, so the allowance is doing all the protective work. Efficiency tells the real story. The napkins are 3,888 sq in of fabric; you buy 3.3 × 36 × 44 = 5,227.2 sq in. That is 74.3801652893 percent used, and roughly a quarter of the cloth is the 7 in strip repeated six times plus the allowance. Change nothing except the bolt — 60 in fabric instead of 44 in — and three pieces fit across, four rows do the job, and the same twelve napkins take 2.2 yd. That is the single most useful thing this calculator shows: for small square pieces, the bolt width matters more than the arithmetic.

piece Count12
piece Width In18
fabric Width In44
extra Allowance Percent10
yards Available3
pattern Repeat In0
selvage Loss In1
solve ForyardsForPieces
piece Length In18

Frequently asked questions.

How many yards of fabric do I need?
It depends on the bolt width as much as on the size of the pieces, which is why an area calculation gives the wrong answer. Work out the usable width — bolt width less selvage — then how many whole pieces fit across it, then how many rows you need, then multiply the rows by the cut length and divide by 36. For twelve 18-inch square pieces on 44-inch cotton with an inch of selvage trimmed, that is two across, six rows, 108 inches, or 3 yards before any allowance. The same twelve pieces on 60-inch fabric are three across, four rows, 72 inches, or 2 yards. Nothing about the pieces changed; only the packing did.
Why is the answer more than the area of my pieces divided by the fabric area?
Because the leftover strip across the width is unusable and it recurs on every row. Twelve 18-inch napkins are 3,888 square inches of cloth; a yard of 44-inch fabric is 1,584 square inches, so pure area says about 2.5 yards. The real figure is 3 yards before allowance, because 43 inches of usable width fits only two 18-inch pieces and wastes 7 inches each row. The efficiency output on this page reports exactly that gap — 74 percent in the worked example — so you can see how much cloth you are buying and not using, and decide whether a different bolt width fixes it.
Should I subtract the selvage from the fabric width?
Almost always, and by an amount you measure rather than assume. ASTM D3774, the standard test method for the width of textile fabric, measures roll and bolt width including the selvages unless otherwise specified, so the width printed on the label is the outside-to-outside measurement. The selvage is the woven edge: often denser, differently tensioned, and on printed goods carrying the manufacturer's registration dots. Trimming half an inch to an inch across both edges is typical, more on printed drapery fabric. Getting this wrong by an inch is what turns two pieces across into three, or three into two — a whole-row difference in either direction.
How much extra fabric should I buy for shrinkage?
Measure it rather than guess it. AATCC TM135 is the standard test method for dimensional changes of fabrics after home laundering precisely because the amount depends on the fibre, the weave, the finish and how you launder it — four wash temperatures, three agitation cycles and four drying procedures in the method itself. The practical approach is to buy a little extra, pre-wash and dry a sample or the whole piece the way you intend to launder the finished item, then measure both dimensions again and use the width you actually have. The 10 percent default here is one labelled allowance covering shrinkage plus cutting error; it is a starting point, not a sourced figure for your cloth.
How does a pattern repeat change the amount of fabric?
It raises every piece to the next whole repeat, so the cost is per piece rather than a flat percentage, and it grows with the size of the repeat relative to the piece. Singer's own example quantifies it: an 84-inch length against a 24-inch repeat has to be cut at 96 inches, and across four lengths that turns 9⅓ yards into 10⅔ — 1⅓ yards more for the identical item. Small repeats on long pieces are cheap; large repeats on short pieces are expensive. Note that this is always a round UP. A piece cut short of the next repeat cannot be pattern-matched to its neighbours, and unlike surplus fabric that error cannot be recovered.
Can I rotate the pieces to save fabric?
Sometimes, but this calculator will not do it for you, and often you should not. The layout here assumes the piece width runs across the bolt and the piece length runs down it, along the lengthwise grain — Singer's rule that fabric "must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain" so that it hangs straight. If your piece is square and the fabric is a solid or an all-over print, rotating it is free and you can simply swap the two dimensions here to compare. If the print is directional, or the piece has to drape, or the stretch differs between warp and weft, rotating changes how the finished item behaves and is not a saving you can take. Run both orientations and pick the one you can actually cut.
How many pieces can I get from a remnant I already own?
Switch the calculator to the second direction and enter the yardage you have. It converts to inches, reserves your allowance out of it, divides by the cut length per piece and rounds DOWN to whole rows — because you cannot cut a row you do not have — then multiplies by the pieces across. It also compares the result against the number you wanted and tells you the shortfall. Measure the remnant rather than trusting the receipt: a shop cut is rarely exact, and both the length and the usable width can be less than you remember.
Does the calculator account for nesting irregular pattern pieces?
No, and that is a real limit rather than a rounding detail. The model is a plain grid of rectangles: whole pieces across, whole rows down. It does not nest curved or irregular garment pieces, does not rotate alternate pieces to interlock, does not cut on the bias, and does not place a piece across a fold. For rectangular work — napkins, cushion covers, quilt blocks and sashing, tote panels, curtain drops — a grid is what you actually cut, so the figure is accurate. For a garment laid out from a commercial pattern, treat this as an upper bound and use the yardage chart on the pattern envelope, which was worked out for that specific nesting.

References& sources.

  1. [1]The Singer Company, How to Make Draperies, Book No. 102 (1960) — Project Gutenberg ebook 63282. PRIMARY SOURCE for the widths-and-cut-lengths method this page generalises, for the pattern-repeat allowance ("if you select a fabric with a large one-way design, some allowance should be made for matching the design so all lengths will balance"), for the fabric-width list ("Some fabrics are only 36" wide … Others may run 40"—48"—even 54" or 60" in width; but the average is about 48" wide"), and for the grain rule ("Draperies must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric"). Its published example — 4 widths of 48" fabric at 84", giving 9⅓ yd plain and 10⅔ yd with a 24" repeat — is reproduced exactly by this page's general algorithm and asserted in its tests. Retrieved and every quotation confirmed 2026-07-30.
  2. [2]ASTM International, ASTM D3774-18, Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric — scope and Option A (full roll or bolt): "Unless otherwise specified, measurements shall include the selvages when present." Cited for the scope limit that a bolt's nominal width includes selvage, which is why usable width is a separate input here. PAYWALLED full standard; scope and title read on the publisher's own store page, 2026-07-30.
  3. [3]AATCC, TM135, Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering (current edition TM135-2025) — four wash temperatures, three agitation cycles and four drying procedures for measuring length and width change. Cited as the reason this page exposes shrinkage as a measured allowance rather than baking in a percentage. PAYWALLED full method; scope read on AATCC's own store listing, 2026-07-30.
  4. [4]NIST, Physical Measurement Laboratory — Revised Unit Conversion Factors (U.S. survey foot deprecation), giving the international foot as exactly 0.3048 m; adopted 1 January 2023 and published in NIST Handbook 44 and NIST Special Publication 811, per Federal Register FR Doc 2020-21902. Source of the exact factor used for the metric output: 1 yd = 3 ft = 0.9144 m. Retrieved 2026-07-30.

In this category

Embed

Quanta Pro

Paid features are coming later.

  • All 977 calculators remain free
  • No billing is enabled
Coming soon